Total Loss of VTEC on the dyno

[MaxSorin]

Hello Everyone,
This is my first time posting up on the Hondata forums. I want to start by saying that I have already reached out to Hondata support, and now I am simply asking around to see what other people are thinking. Here is the story:

I got on the dyno and the car was doing well but for some weird ass reason the fuel pressure was dropping like crazy. Turns out In the hangar the hose partially slipped off and it wasn’t holding pressure. I fixed that within an hour. Waited like 2 more hours for other cars to tune and hopped back on. Everything was promising until RANDOMLY vtec completely stopped working.

Build: 2002 Honda S2000
F20c
ap2 retainers
ap2 banjo bolts
stock motor other than that
Hondata Kpro V4 with all of the sensor conversions
Sheepey Vband turbo kit with gtx turbo
FIC 2150CC injectors
walbro 525 hardwired
ethanol
tial 44mm gate
AEM fuel pressure regulator
fuel pressure gauge
CC stage 4 six puck
oil relocation and oil cooler
All work is done by me

I bought the car last year in June 100% stock. Shortly after I redid the clutch with the popular act oem combo and sprayed a 75 shot of nitrous. I also upgraded to a walbro 450 and id1050x. Car made 199 base, 236 NA on ethanol and 305 with 75 shot. This was all possible thanks to hondata install which went smoothly. No issues in 2019 at all.
Winter of 2019/2020 I begin my turbo install. Changed out my injectors from the ID1050x to FIC2150. Changed out my fuel pump from a walbro 450 to a 525. Changed my fuel pressure regulator to the aem bolt on one and added a gauge. Changed my clutch to the CC stage 4 6 puck.
My first tuning session... car got on the dyno and I had a MAJOR boost creep issue due to a poor manifold design. I made well over 400whp and was only able to rev to 7500ish rpm. The boost creep was the only issue I had the entire time. So I went and bought a brand new Sheepey manifold and put a 14lb spring and ran on wastegate for around a week. PERFECT boost control and decided it’s time to go back to the dyno. (I had 0 issues)

Dyno session 2:
I’m the first person on the dyno and we notice that my fuel gauge is reading all wonky and my fuel pressure was EXTREMELY low. Turns out the fuel pump came loose from the hangar in the tank. Easy 1 hour fix. Here is where things get extremely wonky. I get back on the dyno and have perfect fuel pressure. The tuner begins tuning and every time vtec engages the car instantly cuts out. It’s like if you were to punch the car before reaching operating temp you get a nasty fuel cut. The car falls on its face instantly. here is what I’ve tried so far
I have 80/90’psi of oil pressure
i tested the solenoid, works
replaced the solenoid, no difference
tested continuity from ecu to solenoid, had it
completely ran a new wire from ecu to solenoid, still nothing
i noticed my car was only reaching 2/3 bars for operating temp so I replaced the coolant temp sensor, still no difference and this shouldn’t matter because the map allows vtec to engage at 141 degrees
At this point I have NO idea what to do. Tomorrow I will have a GoPro monitor my fuel pressure regulator when I drive. ALSO things to note. My idle is funky. My tuner said it almost like the fuel pump is surging at times. At idle the afr will randomly change from 14-17.5+ and just keep moving around. I’m sure I’m forgetting a few things but let me know if you have any questions or any ideas regarding what this could be.

Most recent update:
I have tested every single possible thing that could cause vtec to not engage.
New solenoid
New wiring
New map and tuner
New fuel pump
Adjusting fuel pressure
Timing
Rocker arm assembly
Cams
Oil pressure
Now lastly I decided to Hotwire the solenoid and vtec DOES engage when I manually connect it to a power source. This means the solenoid lets oil through, i have oil pressure and the rocker arm assembly is working as it should.
I understand that hondata operates using pulsed grounds everywhere in the ECU (not 100% sure on this) except for that the vtec solenoid is the only 12v signal the ecu provides.

Any suggestions? I am almost 100% confident it is the ecu at this point. Also I CANNOT try my ecu in someone elses car as that is a huge liability for me. I also cannot put their ECU in my car for the same reason.

[MaxSorin]

Here is a datalog and the incomplete map

[Hondata]

The datalog shows VTS switching on. That's the beginning and end of the ECU diagnosis as far as the calibration goes. If VTEC works by giving the solenoid 12V then it could be the ECU or wiring rather than the mechanical aspect of VTEC.

[MaxSorin]

Yeah that is what I figured as well. Is there anyway to get support/RMA from you guys as I know Cali is still locked down?

[Hondata]

We're not going to be able to process RMA for some time.

[MaxSorin]

So how am I supposed to fix my dead car?

[Hondata]

Try your ECU in a known working vehicle. Try a known good ECU in your vehicle. Trace and check wiring from ECU to VTEC.