I have my 02 Civic Si with a Cybernation turbo kit on it. I am using a T60-1 turbo and 750cc injectors. The car is untuned right now but runs fine expect at idle/when I'm slowing down.
I set the idle for 1,100 RPMs and still at idle it will bounce down to 500 and then to 1000~1100 most of the time. Then quite often it will stay around 1500 when I'm slowing down and then just dies. I can start the car right back up again and be fine. It also happens sometimes if I am in 1st or 2nd and then put it into neutral and coast, the car dies ... a lot.
Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
Trouble with 750cc Injectors at idle
Trouble with 750cc Injectors at idle
- KmR
Boosted 02 Si HB
Boosted 02 Si HB
Are you using the Kpro?
I had this problem with the CN stock 550cc low impedance injectors... DO NOT RUN these injectors without a resistor pack!
This is the reason why I decided to go with Kpro, because I had a frequent stalling issue like yours. This was starting to become a driving/safety issue because the engine would die as soon as I go to push in the clutch and let the RPM's drop to idle.
IF you are using the Kpro, try adjusting the idle valve duty cycle either 1 or 2 clicks in either direction to see if that helps.
Also, if you're using the Kpro, let the car idle for 5-10 minutes when you reflash the ECU, to let it learn the idle settings again. It MAY die from idling the first 20 miles or so (this is what I've noticed on my setup)
I had this problem with the CN stock 550cc low impedance injectors... DO NOT RUN these injectors without a resistor pack!
This is the reason why I decided to go with Kpro, because I had a frequent stalling issue like yours. This was starting to become a driving/safety issue because the engine would die as soon as I go to push in the clutch and let the RPM's drop to idle.
IF you are using the Kpro, try adjusting the idle valve duty cycle either 1 or 2 clicks in either direction to see if that helps.
Also, if you're using the Kpro, let the car idle for 5-10 minutes when you reflash the ECU, to let it learn the idle settings again. It MAY die from idling the first 20 miles or so (this is what I've noticed on my setup)
I had this problem for a bit too until I upped my idle air control duty cycle a notch or two. I don't think you can get around the 'dropping to 500' thing -- there's something in the way the honda ecu does idle -- mine is set to 850 and when I'm slowing down it stays at 1100 and then drops to 400 - 500 once I stop then comes back up to 850 almost instantly. It can die if the duty cycle is any lower for me. Also, a lot of rsxs came with bad iacs so you may need a new one -- but I'm guessing you just need to up the duty cycle.
Also, when decelerating with the clutch engaged, you're not pushing any fuel -- as soon as you pull your foot off the clutch, the engine has to keep itself running, and if the map is very rich there, regardless of being closed loop or not, some times it cannot compensate fast enough if it's really really rich. I mean it's suposed to start targeting 14.5:1 at idle, but what is idle, and when does it happen? Generally we let the clutch out before idle rpm i'd say so it's going to fuel off the map initially and I bet the long term trim isn't that accurate down there given the small amount of time we spend in it (middle columns, low rpm).
You might datalog it happening and post it up and see what some people have to say -- make sure to include your calibration.
Also, when decelerating with the clutch engaged, you're not pushing any fuel -- as soon as you pull your foot off the clutch, the engine has to keep itself running, and if the map is very rich there, regardless of being closed loop or not, some times it cannot compensate fast enough if it's really really rich. I mean it's suposed to start targeting 14.5:1 at idle, but what is idle, and when does it happen? Generally we let the clutch out before idle rpm i'd say so it's going to fuel off the map initially and I bet the long term trim isn't that accurate down there given the small amount of time we spend in it (middle columns, low rpm).
You might datalog it happening and post it up and see what some people have to say -- make sure to include your calibration.
i actually have a closely related problem, if you compare the stock injectors to the rc you will notice the tip design is different. the stock ones have a place for air to bypass the injector and be sucked in by the motor. the rc's dont have that so basically its just a vacumm leak all the time, im gunna tyr and plug the holes up and see if i can get it to idle any better,
btw, the idle on changed once i swapped injectors. i cant get it to idle at 14.7 without it popping and missing
btw, the idle on changed once i swapped injectors. i cant get it to idle at 14.7 without it popping and missing
When I am in idle, and if my air ventilation is on position 3 (maximum) and if put my ventilation on 0, my idle drop and my engine stop
My A/F is 13:1 and I have 750cc RC injectors
My A/F is 13:1 and I have 750cc RC injectors
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- idle.kdl
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- Posts: 8
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- Location: Stockton, Ca
i also have a similar problem here the .cal and the data log any help would be greatly appreciated the weird thing is the a/f ratio is 14.7??? weird
K20a3
rotrex supercharger
3 bar map sensor
aem v2 intake
dcrh
hks exhaust
750cc rc saturated injectors
the idle 1-5 is a run from gears one through 5 when driving everything fine just the idle is jagged and rough going back and forth
K20a3
rotrex supercharger
3 bar map sensor
aem v2 intake
dcrh
hks exhaust
750cc rc saturated injectors
the idle 1-5 is a run from gears one through 5 when driving everything fine just the idle is jagged and rough going back and forth
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- idle.kdl
- (1.11 MiB) Downloaded 123 times
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- idle 1-5.kdl
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- rotrexsckit3bar.kal
- (44.75 KiB) Downloaded 110 times
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2005 9:42 am
- Location: Stockton, Ca
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2005 9:42 am
- Location: Stockton, Ca