Hondata

Good Day!

In the process of learning to self tune. I've been studying for the past few weeks and finally started yesterday. I changed my inlet on my JRSC and swapped a bigger crank pulley and smaller boost pulley. Result is my boost has increased from 5 psi (previous tune) to ~9psi today.

Mods are: 06 K24a2, JRSC (K24 crank pulley + 3" boost pulley), SRI, 775cc, VTC - 25*, OBX V1 RH, 2.5" catback exhaust, 50/50 W/M injection (currently off to get base tune settled).

Some basic questions:

1) My IATs from post blower into motor is 140-150* vs the 80* ambient outside temp, so the fuel compensation tab should be adjusted accordingly?

2) Also I have to add a good amount of fuel during part throttle driving. It makes sense since it's better air flow going directly into the blower vs the JRSC inlet and I'm spinning the blower faster, forcing more air into the motor, correct?

Just wanted to confirm my thoughts... I did a 4th gear pull today and surprisingly the fuel look good going up to 7300 in the fuel high speed tables. It's columns 4-7 in the fuel low speed table 9(10 degrees) that looks lean (adding about 10% in all fields from Col 4-7) there.

Here is a screen shot:



My IGN is at 11* during a WOT 4th gear pull... Should I dial it back to be around 23-26*? So far, no knock recorded, but I've read that I should not exceed 23-24* timing when spraying meth, so this seems I need to pull IGN back quite a bit. I'm hitting the IGN compensation table with my IATs being 192*, so it's advancing timing an additional 6*. So, I'm thinking I need to edit the compensation tables or retard the IGN tables in the boost columns.

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated!

UPDATE: I've done a ton of research and been self tuning for the past month. I answered my basic questions and have a better understanding on how to tune, so no need to address my original questions.

The one thing I could not get was the IGN piece until I stumbled upon this today: http://hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5227

So I now understand how to tune for IGN when spraying W/M. When spraying meth, I currently have IGN advancing to 21.5* during WOT pulls. I'll play with this some more to see if I can get some more timing without introducing knock.

Safe I would set it to around 21 like you have it. Make sure you give the motor some time between pulls those IAT numbers will get ugly.

Are you tuning with an actual aftermarket wideband? Or just the oem wb02?

What oil areyou running? Alot of Force induction car i tuned, they switch over to thicker oil and the engine and engine bay runs cooler also.

Monnoracing wrote: ↑Fri Mar 31, 2017 6:05 pm Safe I would set it to around 21 like you have it. Make sure you give the motor some time between pulls those IAT numbers will get ugly.

Thanks! This is where I have it and I've since tuned with water/meth spraying. I also increased my AFR to 11.6 since I was running super rich. IATs spike at 150s F and when I'm normally driving, the IATs remain between 150-160 F on a 80-90F ambient day. Summer will be the real test.

Zperformance wrote: ↑Sun Apr 09, 2017 12:36 pm Are you tuning with an actual aftermarket wideband? Or just the oem wb02?

What oil areyou running? Alot of Force induction car i tuned, they switch over to thicker oil and the engine and engine bay runs cooler also.

OEM O2... I'm running 5w-30 at the moment. Any recommendations?


UPDATE: I'm currently at ~283whp/230wtq at 9psi with no meth. With meth, ~301whp/231wtq.

nats007 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 18, 2017 6:43 am

Zperformance wrote: ↑Sun Apr 09, 2017 12:36 pm Are you tuning with an actual aftermarket wideband? Or just the oem wb02?

What oil areyou running? Alot of Force induction car i tuned, they switch over to thicker oil and the engine and engine bay runs cooler also.

OEM O2... I'm running 5w-30 at the moment. Any recommendations?


UPDATE: I'm currently at ~283whp/230wtq at 9psi with no meth. With meth, ~301whp/231wtq.

If you are using the stock o2 WB you should be using AF correct. It will give you an more accurate AFR. But i would recommend using a AEM or other equivlent known brand wideband.
Alot of guys i tuned switchover to vr1 20w50 and love it.

Good Day,

Quick update: Car is driving great with estimate 283whp/230wtq (without meth injection) and 301whp/231wtq (with meth injection) at 9psi @ 7600rpm. No real issues other than IATs climb pretty fast...

So, I also noticed that I struggle to get 200 miles per tank, so I decided to tweak my VTEC points to see if that can improve mileage. Right now, I have the VTEC window set to the following:

Lower Boundary = 3200rpm @ 98kPa
Upper Boundary = 5200rpm @ 98kPa

I noticed during highway cruising (80-85mph), my RPMs sit right around the lower VTEC boundary. I'm thinking if I bump it to 3500rpm @ 98kPa, it will keep the car in low cam during cruise at said speed, hence improving gas mileage.

Question... What should I set the Upper boundary too and what kPa? I left the current kPa "as is" based on previous e-Tunes I had for my JRSC K20a2 setup, but looking at the Hondata default .kals for the JRSC K24 (650cc STOCK cams), I noticed the following:

Lower Boundary = 3000rpm @ 98kPa
Upper Boundary = 5000rpm @ 24kPa

I'm wondering if I need to adjust the upper boundary kPa or am I ok to leave it as is... Additionally, should I set the upper boundary to 5500rpm OR leave it at 5000rpm? I'm also using the stock VTC...

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

edit: I just stumbled upont this: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.ph ... r+boundary

I'll try the closed loop change recommended (change 87kPa to 102kPa) to see if that improves gas mileage. I'll keep my VTEC (lower and upper) at 98kPa for now, but I'm interested in hearing about the above questions still

So after research and some tweaks, I settled on the following:

Lower Boundary = 3000rpm @ 98kPa
Upper Boundary = 5000rpm @ 87kPa

Also, I noticed that my driving habits was the cause for poor gas mileage... I've been purposely spraying (i.e., hard acceleration to engage methanol injection) to reduce intake temps which was killing gas mileage. Staying out of boost over the weekend so far allowed me to get 180+ miles on 1/2 tank.

All is well now as I thought something was wrong originally.

Good Day folks,

Been a while... I had to get a new motor due to hydrolocking the K24A2 back in OCT 2019. The new motor is a 2008 JDM K24A installed by an indy shop I trust.

Car was able to drive home with a few times it hit lean protection. I went ahead and updated KManager to 4.5.4 to talk with Kpro v3. I was forced to push the .kal, so I reloaded the last .kal I had saved (attached).

The car idles fine, but during part throttle it surges. I recalibrated the TPS, but it's still surging on part throttle. From the datalogs, it seems TPS is not reading correctly (see attached). The car drove much better coming back from the shop than it is now, so definitely suspicious with the .kal.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Car details are in sig (only change is the 2008 K24A motor).

Also, just went back out to test the TPS. I was able to verify that it is functioning. I uninstalled it and reinstalled it. Kpro was showing that it's calibrated correctly.

Im not very experienced but your tps line looks weird and not correlated to the map line, your tps reads fine with the engine running ? Maybe its cause by vibrations

Thanks for the reply! I was able to resolve the issue today. Turns out the the TPS was reading 0.39V at no throttle and 3.96V at wide open throttle when testing with a voltmeter. I ended up adjusting the TPS physically until it read 0.45V at no throttle and 4.5V at wide open throttle.

I was able to hold part throttle at 1.5K, 2K, and 2.5K rpm which I couldn't do a few days ago without surging. I took the car on a 15 minute test drive and all is well now!

The tune I have seems to be doing well. I have not really hit boost yet, but just happy to feel the car respond so well now.

V/R, Nats