Anyone else with PWM boost control randomly not working?

s300 and SManager software questions & answers
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Hondata
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Post by Hondata » Wed Apr 14, 2010 8:50 am

In the beta I have fixed a problem which was resetting the ECU, which may also be affecting the boost control. If people with the boost control problem could test the beta version and give feedback I'd appreciate it.

See SManager 1.4.6.0 beta for the changes and download link.
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rschoener
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Post by rschoener » Thu Apr 15, 2010 7:53 pm

Ok so I tested just the software update first. First passes the car made boost in each gear no problem.. then the second pass it stage at gate pressure. about 7 psi.. So after that i added the Diode. drove the car down to the lanes an it boosted up in 1st and second properly.. But then that run down the track it stayed at gate pressure again.. Here is the cal and the 2 logs.. This is all using the latest beta software.

The Customer install and wired his boost solinoid. We are going to redo the wiring using twisted pair. I'm going to change the power source as well just to see. By the way It is an AEM solinoid.

I have another car that i was also testing tonight similar setup. I upgraded the software to the beta version and did not add the diode. this car has not had the problem since. It did have the in the past but very infrequent.
Attachments
rstechgsrupdate3 pre honda day.skl
latest calibration
(39.78 KiB) Downloaded 47 times
BETA VERSION SAME BOOST PROBLEM NO DIODE.s3d
Boost problem Beta software, No diode installed
(111.41 KiB) Downloaded 46 times
BETA WITH DIODE BOOST PROBLEM...s3d
Beta Software, Boost Problem, Diode installed.
(119.85 KiB) Downloaded 40 times

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Hondata
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Post by Hondata » Fri Apr 16, 2010 8:19 am

Thanks for the feedback. I believe that the problem occurs when the duty drops to 0% between gear shifts (as well as some other conditions). This would explain why it does not occur on the dyno - no gear shifts. We've made a new beta version to fix this.

See V1.4.7 Beta for the download link.
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Post by locash » Sat Apr 17, 2010 12:43 am

First test car worked great on 1.4.7 beta, went it's fastest times ever, and probably the fastest car on S300.. Car went 9.13 @ 163 and 9.16 @ 162 tonight, s300 worked flawlessly for us..

Thanks Derek! Hopefully the other cars are good too!
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Post by Hondata » Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:18 am

Great - glad the PWM is working and the car is running well.
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boostedcivicsir
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Post by boostedcivicsir » Mon May 03, 2010 6:21 pm

havent messed around with the car since november. at that point program was up to date.

i havent had any issues with the PWM. is the diode something i need regardless? if the car isnt experiencing any issues?? i havent messed with the car in a while. trying to catch up.

thanks guys!

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Post by Wolli » Tue May 04, 2010 12:02 pm

and i was the lucky guy with a normally open bcv :(
now i know why the valve stayed open. thanks for three cracked cylinder walls. 60 psi was too much for my engine

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Post by airshifter » Wed May 05, 2010 12:37 am

No more boost issues on any of the 3 cars.

Had a customer bring car in with diode installed and boost went way to high for settings. I cut diode out and everything worked. It was too concealed and pressed for time for me to check his wiring though.

Locash we went 9.08&9.09around 168 about a year ago at Pinks all out in charlotte, nc. There should still be some youtube videos. Just search rlz civic pinks all out. Just changed the setup and went to 1/8 mile track the other night and went .25 seconds faster in the 1/8th than we did on those 9.0 passes. Hope to get to a 1/4 mile track soon. s300 has always been good to my car :)

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Post by locash » Wed May 05, 2010 10:44 pm

Looks like we have a challenge! :) Can you provide a link to the setup on the RLZ car? Is it built to the previous SFWD rules, or a hot rod style car? Not that it matters, my post was obviously incorrect anyway, lol..
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Post by airshifter » Thu May 06, 2010 12:10 am

It's an outlaw SFWD car
Attachments
racecar_pits-j.JPG
last year with top mount manifold, the way we ran the 9.0 passes
racecar_pits-j.JPG (38.87 KiB) Viewed 2361 times
100_1928-s.JPG
that turbo was used for fitment only. we have a 72 on the car
100_1928-s.JPG (63.53 KiB) Viewed 2361 times

EkJimmy
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Post by EkJimmy » Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:36 pm

Hondata wrote:I've noticed that the ECU does not do a good job of supressing the voltage surge from the solenoid operation. This may not be the cause of the problems on this thread, but it is something which needs to fixed for most users. We'll make a release with instructions in the next few days but here is a quick overview so that some of you having problems can see if this is the cause. Again, in any case this is something which you'll want to fix anyhow.

Any inductive coil will produce a voltage spike / surge when it is de-energized. This is how ignition coils work. Normally the coil will either have a built in supressive diode (Honda relays often have) or the controller (ECU) will deal with the voltage. In this case we've found that the Honda ECU was not doing that great of a job supressing the back voltage spike.

The solution is to add a diode to shunt the voltage away from the ECU.

Image
Solenoid showing voltage spike.

Image
After the addition of a supressive diode.

The diode should be an 1N4004. These are available from Radio Shack for $1, but are very common and should be available at any electronics store.

The diode needs to be wired near the solenoid in parallel with the solenoid so that the anode (end with the stripe) goes to the +12V supply, and the cathode (end without the stripe) goes to the wire running back to A11.

Don't get the wires around the wrong way otherwise the ECU output transistor is going to get unhappy very quickly.

Additional instructions and pictures will be posted in the next few days.
i'm a little confused on how to wire the diode. When looking at a diode the anode end is without the stripe and the cathode side is with the stripe but on you're instructions its stating the opposite?

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Post by Hondata » Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:26 am

EkJimmy wrote:i'm a little confused on how to wire the diode. When looking at a diode the anode end is without the stripe and the cathode side is with the stripe but on you're instructions its stating the opposite?
Yes, you're correct - the cathode (stripe end) should be wired to +12V and the anode to the ECU pin end.
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pizza1424
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Post by pizza1424 » Sat Oct 23, 2010 12:35 pm

i seam to be having the same problem
Attachments
dioed run set for 8lbs.s3d
(702.66 KiB) Downloaded 33 times
doied set 8lbs.s3d
(409.53 KiB) Downloaded 36 times

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Post by pizza1424 » Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:23 am

is there any thing that could have burn out in the ecu that that would cause the data log to say it turn on the pwm but nothing happen cause i tried two ecu both set up for boost . tried mine in my car and it only worked off the gate then tried my buddys in my car and again only worked off the gate put his ecu back in his car and now his only works off of his gate no matter what psi i set it at when i first wired it up i was unaware of the Diode because we were going off my buddys setup witch was installed over a year a go and working fine is there a way to test the compoents

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Post by illegalsaint » Tue Nov 23, 2010 1:19 pm

If i install the v1.4.7 beta, do i need the supressive diode too????

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