Hondata

What's up peoples? Before you bash me with the search stick, let it be known I've put in 4 weeks of search on Hondata, honda-tech, b20vtec, and multiple other Honda forums. I've used Google, Lycos, Yahoo, Bing, and some other search engine just to receive different search results with similar keywords. With that said let me begin.

LS/VTEC: B18B1 BOTTOM END- FULLY BUILT FOR TURBO 8.1 COMP. JE PISTON IS THE ONLY THING NOT OEM SPEC.
B16A2 2000 SI HEAD STOCK EVERYTHING FOR NOW.

MY IGNITION TABLE IS FROM A B16 CALIBRATION COPIED AND PASTED ONTO A STOCK LS CALIBRATION, SO THE....(wait sorry for the caps, i don't wanna erase everything and type over)... fuel delivery would be enough to compensate for the bigger displacement, and the ignition will follow a b16 ignition sequence of the b16 head. Is that correct for a DIY base map to begin with????? My calibration looks like this....(look at attachment).

Thats one thing, but not the reason for this thread....

I purchased the PLX device. I want to use it as a narrowband for closed loop and wideband as open loop tuning.
I understand the installation instructions, but I'm a little confused on what Hondata is talking about when they say i can use and old o2 sensor wired as an adapter. Can someone please explain or even show me a picture on what they mean. I'm thinking there talking about cutting out the old o2 sensor and joining the wires like this...

Just follow the instructions at http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html

As long as you do what it says there you do not need to make any adapters or anything else.

Understood.

But, there are options.

I cannot locate the resistors, and if I can use the things I have at hand (old sensor), why not? (Mind you, it's less work and less things to go wrong).
I'm not asking for instructions on how to wire the PLX device, I'm simply asking about how to create the adapter that is mentioned.
Please do not begin to behave in a manner that you believe everyone is inferior to understanding, if they gave clear instructions, I wouldn't ask.
I understand that you probably answer these questions everyday, but realize that we are paying customers, and would appreciate the help straight from the people who have the ability to help.

Please and Thanks.

The instuructions in the link above doe not say anything about making an adapter. You only need to remove the resistors if you find that the redings in the software do mot match the readings on the gauge.

If you follow the instructions given it will work without any issues. If you are reading older instructions they are outdated as the software has changed and you can now install it in a much simpler way.

Thanks for the info.

PLX included two capacitor to be inserted between ground and narrow band signal, and ground and wideband signal.

It's not mentioned on the link provided, do I install them?

and if those are install would i have to install a third 0.1uf in the ECU (C42) if I plan on using EGRL instead of ELD?

They are not needed.

If you use the EGRL input instead, just follow the instructions in our help file.

Hey Spunkster, I want to use A25 IGP2 Power Source (Main Relay?) as my +12v for the PLX SM-AFR. Is it safe regarding voltage spikes or any other factors that may harm the ECU?

I'm trying to escape the fuse box run, simply because of neatness.

So far here is my setup in theory. ( Don't hate on the MsPaint ;] )
Thanks for all your help.

No, you should use the switched power in the fuse box.

Thanks for your help.

As long as it turns off when the Engine is not running then it will be ok, but you may find it helps to have it be able to power up when the engien is not running to be able to calibrate the voltage offset.

Yes, I moved my fog light +12v from the switch "RUN" to the constant +12 (to the relay and then the fog light switch to the "Hot when Park Light or Headlight" )in the fuse box, so I will wire for the PLX to the +12v at the "RUN" circuit where the fogs +12v was.

.........with all that out the way. Did you have a chance to look at my calibration?...if not here's what I did.

opened the P30 basemap, and copied and pasted the 1st and 2nd fuel tables from the P74 LS/GS/RS basemap into the P30's fuel table.

its an LS bottom- so i figured i'd use the P74 fuel maps for the displacement difference.

and a B16A2 head- so i used the JDM P30's Ignition tables to compensate for the vtec head.

It's a basemap until the turbo goes in. then its off to the dyno tune