I DO have my TPS hooked up. that was the other guy that had it wired wrong. Everythnig is hooked up. I've set the basemap accordingly and still doesn't work :(
Also I tune everythnig myself. Nearest tuner is too far. I'm fully confident in tunnig anyhting as I ahve been tuning msot turbo hondas and DSM's in my area for the past year or so. I've jsut never ran into a problem like this before.
Don't worrya bout sounding like an ass or not. I would too if I were in yuor shoes. For ocne I'm on the othe end, that and the fact taht I can't type worth shit when I'm in a rush :p
Cannot get car to even run with S300!!!
Thread will be locked if there is any more pissing.
The MSD distributor signal output appears to cause a problem with some ECUs. If you s300 happens to be in one of those ECUs, it will not work very well (usually at higher rpm). Solution is to remove the MSD or swap the s300 into a different ECU.
Create a basemap as per locash's suggestion (USDM P72, change injector size and MAP sensor), either swap the s300 into a different ECU or remove the MSD, then post the calibration and datalog here if there any problems.
The MSD distributor signal output appears to cause a problem with some ECUs. If you s300 happens to be in one of those ECUs, it will not work very well (usually at higher rpm). Solution is to remove the MSD or swap the s300 into a different ECU.
Create a basemap as per locash's suggestion (USDM P72, change injector size and MAP sensor), either swap the s300 into a different ECU or remove the MSD, then post the calibration and datalog here if there any problems.
Hondata
Welp, put OE dizzy in and it definantly started up alot better then before and "tried" to tidle but was far too lean. I ended up finding out taht even when it seemed to uplaod the tune, nothing would change on the ecu looking at my wideband readigns. didn't matetr weather I uplaoded OE tune or 750 tune it ran the same. so socketing msut be bad. but OE dizzy definantly fixed the eratic idle.
What does it mean if the RED and GREEN LED's are lit up constant on the S300 whenever powered up and running?
EDIT: I tried running it again in a stock vehicle and actually, ti doesn't work etiehr. same sorta symptoms but atleast it idles it better but doesn't run worth shit. I thinkt he fact taht my car has 750's and 3 bar map excalates the problem 10 fold. Must be a bad soder job or bad ECU because the CEL stays on the whole time. and when I jumpt he service conector, the CEL stays on solid indicating bad ECU or socketing. I'll try again by cutting the J1 jumper and reverting it to stock program in dongi so and then seeing what happens. I ahve a feeling it's teh ECU. I never tested the ECU before hand...
EDIT: I tried running it again in a stock vehicle and actually, ti doesn't work etiehr. same sorta symptoms but atleast it idles it better but doesn't run worth shit. I thinkt he fact taht my car has 750's and 3 bar map excalates the problem 10 fold. Must be a bad soder job or bad ECU because the CEL stays on the whole time. and when I jumpt he service conector, the CEL stays on solid indicating bad ECU or socketing. I'll try again by cutting the J1 jumper and reverting it to stock program in dongi so and then seeing what happens. I ahve a feeling it's teh ECU. I never tested the ECU before hand...
Hondata: Is there anyway to purchase those male to male pins 2 x 14 and 1 x 4 so I can socket it into another ECU? If so please let me know at: tommyhang@hotmail.com with pricing and shipping to CANADA, V2A 6R2 for fastest shipping available. thx
It's unfortunate that we are not permitted to piss in here, eh? :)
Yes, it definately sounds like an ecu problem at this point, and if nothing else, I've learned that it's probably not a good idea to try one of the MSD distributors at this point it time. :)
Good luck on that problem, let us know how it turns out.
Yes, it definately sounds like an ecu problem at this point, and if nothing else, I've learned that it's probably not a good idea to try one of the MSD distributors at this point it time. :)
Good luck on that problem, let us know how it turns out.
Socketing and trying another ECU is a good idea.
The pins used for socketing are very common - 0.025" square posts on 0.100" centers. You will be able to find a supplier closer to your location that will be much cheaper than us sending some pins up. Part number for Digikey is WM6536-ND and Jameco is 22-28-4363 Most electronic shops will have the pins as well.
The pins used for socketing are very common - 0.025" square posts on 0.100" centers. You will be able to find a supplier closer to your location that will be much cheaper than us sending some pins up. Part number for Digikey is WM6536-ND and Jameco is 22-28-4363 Most electronic shops will have the pins as well.
Hondata