TPS default value/CEL 7

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sackdz
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TPS default value/CEL 7

Post by sackdz » Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:43 pm

s200, ITR.

-I have tried 3 TPS sensors, all calibrated.
-No TPS fault with stock ECU.
-I have a CEL 7 (TPS) that won't go away.
-Vsig .68V open, 4.75V closed (or whichever way around)
-Sensor supply @ sensor is 5V dead nuts.
-Logger reads 26% (1.5V) no matter what.

I am guessing that this is the software's default value for faulted TPS.

Can someone confirm this? Unplug your TPS and see what the logger value shows.

At any rate, what are my probable causes?

My guesses
1) cracked solder joint on TPS sig input
2) Bad A2D channel?

If I start the car with the pedal depressed halfway, the voltage is guaranteed to be in range, yet still faults....
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Post by Hondata » Thu Jul 30, 2009 7:56 am

Sounds like you've narrowed it down to the ECU - the next step would be to try another ECU socketed for the S200.
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Post by Spunkster » Thu Jul 30, 2009 9:42 am

Have you tried the ECU in a different car?

sackdz
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Post by sackdz » Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:22 am

Spunkster wrote:Have you tried the ECU in a different car?
No. Don't have one. But the stock ECU doesn't fault in this car...

But as an update, I found out that my TPS sensor's pinning was reversed. Actually, the molded connector was upside down compared to the other two I had. So it was 4.5V closed and .5V open

So I switched to the correct style and recalibrated not by resistance on the sensor, but by voltage at the ECU. Still a fault.

Spunk - while searching I saw you speak many times about TPS voltage at idle. What is the SRC thresholds that the sensor must be within in order not to fault?

By the way, the car still drives fine, my lap times are within 1 second from 3 years ago when I didn't have this problem...
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Post by Spunkster » Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:37 am

The stock ECU not faulting is not a good test. You really need to find another car to try this in, as you may not have a problem with the ECU.

You may even have the MAP and TPS plugs swapped.

I do not know the threshold for the error to be triggered, but a properly callibrated TPS wil be right at about .49 volts when closed.

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Post by sackdz » Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:22 am

I don't have the sensors swapped.

I am at .495V closed. I didn't measure at the backside pin inside the ECU, but assuming I have correct voltage there.

If I don't, great.

But if I do, there's no reason for it to fault before I even press the pedal.
In this case, can Hondata share any schematic of their P73 so I can better troubleshoot? I want to avoid replacing the ECU, obviously.

And just to clarify, I am clearing codes either with the logger SW, or cutting master battery power via kill switch for a few seconds. When I reconnect, the code does not appear until a few seconds after engine is fired, which leads me to believe I am clearing fault memory correctly, and faults are not stored in any EEPROM or similar burnable memory that they survive after power loss. Is that correct?
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Post by Spunkster » Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:58 am

You need to check the voltage at the ecu because you may have a wiring fault that is causing the ecu to see improper voltages. This is why testing in a known good vehicle is important.

As long as all power is cut to the ecu if even for a second or 2 the error codes will all be erased.

A P73 is an OBD2 ECU and is nothing like an OBD1 ECU.

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Post by sackdz » Thu Jul 30, 2009 12:46 pm

I have pretty much ruled out the vehicle/tps/harness, because I am measuring voltage at the ECU, backside wiring harness connector. I don't think it will change measuring internally at terminal-PCB junction, but I will try.

Sorry I didn't mean P73, I have a Hondata-branded ECU module, OBD1 of course.. Do you have a schematic?
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Post by Spunkster » Thu Jul 30, 2009 1:12 pm

The only thing left for you to try is a different ECU then.

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Post by sackdz » Thu Jul 30, 2009 2:18 pm

RESOLUTION (repost again due to delete):

If you purchased a defective Hondata ECU (like me), and you have this problem, you need to jumper the TPS signal pin to PCB terminal D11 as shown in the schematic posted.

jumper:
Image

fix the shitty rivet job while you're in there:
Image

Hey spunk dumpster, acting like a necrosing labia will not get people to buy s300s or kpro's. either will deleting the technical solution i posted in this thread, because you dont like to hear the facts.

http://honda-tekh.com/thread?id=4124
Last edited by sackdz on Fri Jul 31, 2009 12:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by Spunkster » Thu Jul 30, 2009 2:27 pm


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