Need help with IAT and ECT compensation

[Bvillarreal]

My current tune was tuned when IAT was 80* now it is around 60* and my car idles and cruises at 10.5 and cruises at around 12.5 for a good 15 minutes until it is pretty warmed up and I was wondering if somebody could help me with the compensations here. Ive read that the stock compensations work well, but in my case it isnt. Any help is appreciated.

Brandon 16lbs Anti lag and all the goods.skl

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[Bvillarreal]

anybody?

[MotorMo]

Hi B, I am no "tuner" by any means, but I just retuned that portion of my ecu. I believe the "stock" settings work well for strock injectors, but with increased sizing, the ect/iat needs to be altered.
From "parameters" go into "fuel compensation" . if your car was tuned at 80 degrees, then u can have a cell that inputs "80 degrees = 0 fuel compensation", from there u can leave the "extreems" in place( ie full cold and full hot cells) and equally space the temp and compensation setting. after that its trial and error. and for me this took a while to get just right. If ur WOT looks very rich now too with the colder weather, u can also adjust the medium and high load IAT tables, but be careful, colder air is more dense and needs more fuel fore a complete burn when cold. BE CAREFUL
This should get u started. while tuning, its critical to watch, and make sure there are no other tables effecting the base maps while on the dyno (ie iat/ect compensation tables) from there you can adjust the temp comps after the initial tune.. save the old tune, save lots. trial and error. good luck!
PS, some people have their tuners tune their car for winter and summer. this is good for business, but there are parameters which can eliminate the need for constant retuning.

[Bvillarreal]

Thank you I will mess with it a little more. Forgot to mention my injectors are 650cc

[MotorMo]

no prob. only after thought; looking back through your tune, is instead of setting a 80 degree cell at 0% correction, find out abouts where the correction/compensation was at the time of the tune, 80 degree cell with .7?, .8?correction? any ways, happy tuning and good luck.

[Monnoracing]

Only thing I could see I didnt like was the fuel trim.

[Bvillarreal]

The overall?

[Bvillarreal]

Also what do you think of the timing in full boost around 7000 rpm on because my fuel is really rich there but my tuber said he thinks there may be too much timing causing it to really break up. It's almost like it just gives up. But idk with him be can't seen to get some stuff right sometimes that's why I'm looking to get some help here

[Monnoracing]

Yes overall fuel trim. What spark plugs are you using?

[Monnoracing]

What motor is this? LSvtec?

[Monnoracing]

See if this helps your running rich on start up. Do you have a wideband installed in car and if so do you have it hooked into the s300?

[Bvillarreal]

IM using the ngk 4091 gapped at 25 and yes lsvtec. I have a wideband, but not into the s300.

[Bvillarreal]

so how do i go about hooking up the s300 to the wideband if i have the data logging cable?

[MotorMo]

Your spark plugs, from my understanding, needs to be a "resistor" type plug. The ngk 4091's are not. Honda does not recommend non-resistor type plugs, nor does Hondata from what I've read. Could be a reason for the high RPM "breakup", and other underline issues. I run, and would recommend, the ngk bkr7e's ASAP! Gap them slightly smaller than spec- around .030 . Research this and you will find lots of info. As far as hooking the wide band into the s300, look at the "help menu",it will guide you step by step. Take note, I've found that while data logging, the s300 o2 numbers will be slightly off from the gauge readings, even with the recommended voltage scales of that particular brand of wide band. Always trust the gauge over the numbers logged. Using different spark plugs should not alter your tune. Search "non-resistor" plugs on Hondata's search engine to learn more.

[Bvillarreal]

Thanks for the info. Will try out those plugs asap!