Not getting full boost

[brandonckc]

I have a 2016 base civic 1.5T CVT and just reflash with "return to stock" and unlock from vehicle.
However i realise i'm not getting the full boost as advertised by Honda 16.5psi. The boost gauge on dash also 2-3 bars down from top.

To be exact, i datalog it and suprisingly the BPCMD is only 13-14psi, and that's only peak a short while around 5000 rpm. Below that rev range i was getting much lower boost typically around 11-12psi.

I do remeber before i perform custom tuning, like completely stock car i was able to hit full bar on the boost gauge.
Now after "RTS", i'm not getting the full boost.

I also change back to stock intake and stock air filter. The only mod i have now is decat downpipe and frontpipe.
Is this normal? Is hondata "RTS" map the same as the map from factory?

[Emount91]

I have a 2016 base civic 1.5T CVT and just reflash with "return to stock" and unlock from vehicle.
However i realise i'm not getting the full boost as advertised by Honda 16.5psi. The boost gauge on dash also 2-3 bars down from top.

To be exact, i datalog it and suprisingly the BPCMD is only 13-14psi, and that's only peak a short while around 5000 rpm. Below that rev range i was getting much lower boost typically around 11-12psi.

I do remeber before i perform custom tuning, like completely stock car i was able to hit full bar on the boost gauge.
Now after "RTS", i'm not getting the full boost.

I also change back to stock intake and stock air filter. The only mod i have now is decat downpipe and frontpipe.
Is this normal? Is hondata "RTS" map the same as the map from factory?

you are more than likely hitting the stock torque limiter and do not need that extra 2-3PSI of boost to do so. There are certain conditions you car will need the full boost, but if it is hitting the set torque limit, it will pull boost back. I think I read somewhere the stock limiter is set to "210nm" on the torque limiter table. that is why in some countries our car is nicknamed the "210" civic.

16.5PSI is the MAX BOOST the car will allow stock, but it will not need it all the time. You will often see less than 16.5, but never more than that in any circumstance. the 6+ PSI tune pushes this max PSI limit to 22.5PSI but again you may not ever see that full boost because it doesn't need it to hit the torque limiter's max value (by default, this value is 250nm. if you increase this limit WHICH I DO NOT RECOMMEND UNLESS YOU KNOW THE RISK YOU ARE TAKING WITH YOUR CVT, you will see closer to that max 22.5PSI boost because it will need that extra to get to the higher torque limit).

AGAIN, I do not recommend you change the values on the torque limiter table unless A) you or someone helping you knows exactly what they are doing with regards to tuning THIS SPECIFIC gen civic and B) you are fully aware of the risk you are taking in damaging your CVT. That being said, I have this value raised to 290nm in the 2000-5000 range with blending and I see 20-21.5PSI at WOT. Before raising this limiter I was only seeing 18-19PSI at WOT. Because to hit that extra 40nm of torque, it needs more boost.

[Emount91]

I have a 2016 base civic 1.5T CVT and just reflash with "return to stock" and unlock from vehicle.
However i realise i'm not getting the full boost as advertised by Honda 16.5psi. The boost gauge on dash also 2-3 bars down from top.

To be exact, i datalog it and suprisingly the BPCMD is only 13-14psi, and that's only peak a short while around 5000 rpm. Below that rev range i was getting much lower boost typically around 11-12psi.

I do remeber before i perform custom tuning, like completely stock car i was able to hit full bar on the boost gauge.
Now after "RTS", i'm not getting the full boost.

I also change back to stock intake and stock air filter. The only mod i have now is decat downpipe and frontpipe.
Is this normal? Is hondata "RTS" map the same as the map from factory?

you are more than likely hitting the stock torque limiter and do not need that extra 2-3PSI of boost to do so. There are certain conditions you car will need the full boost, but if it is hitting the set torque limit, it will pull boost back. I think I read somewhere the stock limiter is set to "210nm" on the torque limiter table. that is why in some countries our car is nicknamed the "210" civic.

16.5PSI is the MAX BOOST the car will allow stock, but it will not need it all the time. You will often see less than 16.5, but never more than that in any circumstance. the 6+ PSI tune pushes this max PSI limit to 22.5PSI but again you may not ever see that full boost because it doesn't need it to hit the torque limiter's max value (by default, this value is 250nm. if you increase this limit WHICH I DO NOT RECOMMEND UNLESS YOU KNOW THE RISK YOU ARE TAKING WITH YOUR CVT, you will see closer to that max 22.5PSI boost because it will need that extra to get to the higher torque limit).

AGAIN, I do not recommend you change the values on the torque limiter table unless A) you or someone helping you knows exactly what they are doing with regards to tuning THIS SPECIFIC gen civic and B) you are fully aware of the risk you are taking in damaging your CVT. That being said, I have this value raised to 290nm in the 2000-5000 range with blending and I see 20-21.5PSI at WOT. Before raising this limiter I was only seeing 18-19PSI at WOT. Because to hit that extra 40nm of torque, it needs more boost.

it also may be helpful to point out that you may see 22.5PSI of boost if you do not have "use MAP to determine WOT" checked with the 6+PSI tune installed. This is because if you do not check that, the car uses the t.pedal to determine if you are trying to go into WOT. For some reason, our T.pedals do not see a value of over 96%, so the car stays in Closed Loop under high load instead of using the WOT tables. In closed loop, your target AFRs will be 14.7 which will not supply a lot of engine power, so your ECU will command the turbo to spool at a higher PSI to give it that power.

If you have "use MAP to determine WOT" checked, your ECU will use the WOT tables under load which commands AFRs of 10-11. That yeilds a lot more engine power, so the ECU doesn't need to command the turbo to spool as high. this is why you want to leave this parameter unchecked if you are worried about gas mileage, a 14.7 AFR uses less fuel than a WOT 10.5 AFR, but obviously a 14.7 AFR is going to need a lot more turbo spool than a 10.5 AFR to hit it's torque target under load.

It is always better to have more engine power with less boost than it is to have max boost with a lower engine power.