Honda b16 questions/problems

sleeperb16 · Post by **sleeperb16** » Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:48 pm

i have a honda crx with a jdm b16a2 has some bolt ons (intake, throttle body, exhaust, fuel rail and fuel pump) running on a p30 ecu (virgin).

My first problem is the car runs like crap. it starts beautifully and usually idles pretty good, and it drives ok for about 5 minutes after i start it. After the car warms up it runs horrible. It backfires, sputters, and loses all power when under load, but if i shut it off and restart it the car will do ok for another couple of minutes. (My wideband reads an a/f ratio of 16:1 almost constantly). I have a check engine code that says my o2 sensor is bad. The car used to have a supercharged b20 vtec with a p28 ecu chipped with ectune, but it spun a rod bearing so i swapped in a b16. (SORRY IF THIS IS UNORGANIZED AND CONVOLUTED). When i had the b16 installed they used all of my bolt on parts except for the supercharger and engine management. The old engine management system used a 5 wire wideband o2 sensor and i was wondering if it is ok to run a wide band o2 on a stock ecu or if i should convert it back to a stock style o2 sensor. Would switching back to a stock style fix my lean situation?

Note: i have reset the ecu a few times and the code keeps coming back right on start up.

My second question is why does my mechanic tell me i should get a p28 and have hondata put in instead of using the p30 i already have? Does it matter?

Thank you for taking the time to read through this mess. Any help, advice, or insight would be greatly appreciated.

AREA876 · Post by **AREA876** » Fri Sep 24, 2010 6:16 am

I would try using a stock O2 sensor to see if that fixs to problem.
If your ECU is JDM (square), you have to use Hondata S300j
If your ECU is USDM (retangle), you have to use Hondata S300.
USDM ECU has the ability of controlling Boost.

Luke · Post by **Luke** » Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:08 am

a) check the fuel pressure
b) P30 + S300 just works fine
c) tune it to a safe AFR
d) Stock ECU doesn't work with wideband, only if it has a narrowband output ;) with S300 it'll work just fine with the wideband

best regards Lukas

sleeperb16 · Post by **sleeperb16** » Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:12 pm

ok so i swapped out my o2 and rewired the car for a 4 wire o2 and that has solved my fuel issues and the car runs great. but now after about 5 minutes of driving i get a check engine light. how do i read the code!? i have an obd1 motor and ecu with a jumper harness. I cant figure out how to read the error code.

sleeperb16 · Post by **sleeperb16** » Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:23 pm

i got to the point of counting the lights and i get 2 long flashes with a pause in between then it pauses for a little longer then before and gives 2 more ling flashes then 3 short. i cant tell if it is saying codes 20 and 23 or just code 43.

Luke · Post by **Luke** » Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:29 pm

20 would be ELD
23 would be Knock Sensor
43 would be Fuel Supply.

i would guess, that that you don't have a couple of sensors, and so the errors occur.

best regards Lukas

sleeperb16 · Post by **sleeperb16** » Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:30 pm

i installed a fuel pressure gauge today and i have good pressure. 45 psi with the vacuum hose disconnected. but car is still acting weird. sometimes it will idle at 1200 rpm when warm, and some times it will idle around 500 rpm and the idle is rough. i have checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks and cannot find any. Any ideas?

On the check engine subject i dont have a knock sensor and isnt the eld a part of the distributor?

Post by **Spunkster** » Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:44 pm

If you dont' have a knock sensor then you must disable the knock sensor, and the ELD has nothign to do with the distributor.

sleeperb16 · Post by **sleeperb16** » Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:47 pm

where is the eld? how do i fix it?

sleeperb16 · Post by **sleeperb16** » Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:16 pm

the car keeps blowing the turn signal/tach fuse!

Post by **Spunkster** » Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:42 am

Get the Helms ETM and figure out your wiring problems. If you are unable to do this then take the car to a shop that is familiar with fixing wiring issues.

sleeperb16 · Post by **sleeperb16** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 12:05 am

ok as of now all wiring issues are fixed. i still get codes 23 and 20 on the cel. the car has some new symptoms. under heavy acceleration the car will hesitate and start rapidly back firing. the idle also changes randomly it will idle fine then fall for about 10 seconds then pick back up and some times it will idle high and stay high. i believe the idiots that timed my car (only had a shop do it because i dont have a timing light) timed it with a vacuum leak(bad map o ring). Would incorrect timing cause the car to run as described? except for the check engine of course.

Post by **Spunkster** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:41 am

If your car does not have a knock sneor or the ECU you are usign does not support it then you must disable the knock control under Misc in parameters. The same goes for ELD error.

sleeperb16 · Post by **sleeperb16** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 2:14 pm

i am not using hondata. i am using a virgin jdm p30. is there any way to get aroung the knock sensor? like different ecu or some type of bypass or simulator? and what types of problems would the lack of a knock sensor cause?

brox · Post by **brox** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 3:45 pm

It sounds like something i have heard about before...

are you running a catalysator? if yes, then i would check if it's loose inside..

Honda b16 questions/problems

Honda b16 questions/problems

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