Honda b16 questions/problems
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Honda b16 questions/problems
i have a honda crx with a jdm b16a2 has some bolt ons (intake, throttle body, exhaust, fuel rail and fuel pump) running on a p30 ecu (virgin).
My first problem is the car runs like crap. it starts beautifully and usually idles pretty good, and it drives ok for about 5 minutes after i start it. After the car warms up it runs horrible. It backfires, sputters, and loses all power when under load, but if i shut it off and restart it the car will do ok for another couple of minutes. (My wideband reads an a/f ratio of 16:1 almost constantly). I have a check engine code that says my o2 sensor is bad. The car used to have a supercharged b20 vtec with a p28 ecu chipped with ectune, but it spun a rod bearing so i swapped in a b16. (SORRY IF THIS IS UNORGANIZED AND CONVOLUTED). When i had the b16 installed they used all of my bolt on parts except for the supercharger and engine management. The old engine management system used a 5 wire wideband o2 sensor and i was wondering if it is ok to run a wide band o2 on a stock ecu or if i should convert it back to a stock style o2 sensor. Would switching back to a stock style fix my lean situation?
Note: i have reset the ecu a few times and the code keeps coming back right on start up.
My second question is why does my mechanic tell me i should get a p28 and have hondata put in instead of using the p30 i already have? Does it matter?
Thank you for taking the time to read through this mess. Any help, advice, or insight would be greatly appreciated.
My first problem is the car runs like crap. it starts beautifully and usually idles pretty good, and it drives ok for about 5 minutes after i start it. After the car warms up it runs horrible. It backfires, sputters, and loses all power when under load, but if i shut it off and restart it the car will do ok for another couple of minutes. (My wideband reads an a/f ratio of 16:1 almost constantly). I have a check engine code that says my o2 sensor is bad. The car used to have a supercharged b20 vtec with a p28 ecu chipped with ectune, but it spun a rod bearing so i swapped in a b16. (SORRY IF THIS IS UNORGANIZED AND CONVOLUTED). When i had the b16 installed they used all of my bolt on parts except for the supercharger and engine management. The old engine management system used a 5 wire wideband o2 sensor and i was wondering if it is ok to run a wide band o2 on a stock ecu or if i should convert it back to a stock style o2 sensor. Would switching back to a stock style fix my lean situation?
Note: i have reset the ecu a few times and the code keeps coming back right on start up.
My second question is why does my mechanic tell me i should get a p28 and have hondata put in instead of using the p30 i already have? Does it matter?
Thank you for taking the time to read through this mess. Any help, advice, or insight would be greatly appreciated.
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Next problem
ok so i swapped out my o2 and rewired the car for a 4 wire o2 and that has solved my fuel issues and the car runs great. but now after about 5 minutes of driving i get a check engine light. how do i read the code!? i have an obd1 motor and ecu with a jumper harness. I cant figure out how to read the error code.
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i installed a fuel pressure gauge today and i have good pressure. 45 psi with the vacuum hose disconnected. but car is still acting weird. sometimes it will idle at 1200 rpm when warm, and some times it will idle around 500 rpm and the idle is rough. i have checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks and cannot find any. Any ideas?
On the check engine subject i dont have a knock sensor and isnt the eld a part of the distributor?
On the check engine subject i dont have a knock sensor and isnt the eld a part of the distributor?
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Get the Helms ETM and figure out your wiring problems. If you are unable to do this then take the car to a shop that is familiar with fixing wiring issues.
Last edited by Spunkster on Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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ok as of now all wiring issues are fixed. i still get codes 23 and 20 on the cel. the car has some new symptoms. under heavy acceleration the car will hesitate and start rapidly back firing. the idle also changes randomly it will idle fine then fall for about 10 seconds then pick back up and some times it will idle high and stay high. i believe the idiots that timed my car (only had a shop do it because i dont have a timing light) timed it with a vacuum leak(bad map o ring). Would incorrect timing cause the car to run as described? except for the check engine of course.
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