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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:19 am 
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Location: Hondata
Try adjusting your valves make sure they are not out of spec.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 1:24 pm 
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Location: South Africa
Which version of Flashpro manager are you using? There was a problem with knock control on an older version.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 21, 2011 12:01 am
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Hi civicRSA, I'm using the latest version. 1.1.8.5
Spunkster, I'll bring the car to check. But the car drives good when I switch the knock sensitivity higher.
It will still detect knock in cyl 2 if the ign timing is too high. Therefore I tend to think that the car got no prob.
Idling ok, high cams no prob at all, in fact it never knock in high cams. Only occasional 1 knocks if timing is too advanced.
If car got prob, what is it not showing in the high cams?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 2:42 am 
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sc0rcher wrote:
Another thing I was wondering.. WHy the knock sensitivity values in the AFM calibrations and MAP calibrations are different for the same car?


Any answer? Is the knock sensor more sensitive in AFM tune.. so has to set higher value?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 10:41 am 
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They are 2 completely different methods for tuning an engine, and one may be more prone to knock than the other.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 4:23 pm 
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Thank you. I have check my car, and there's nothing wrong with it.
Puzzling to see that a type R can run so badly in stock ecu. Before reflash and after reflash and gg back to stock
is 2 different car. I seriously doubt that the rts is back to stock ecu. But there's nothing i can do but to order a new
ecu. Flashpro is an expensive lesson.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 10:10 pm 
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sc0rcher wrote:
Thank you. I have check my car, and there's nothing wrong with it.
Puzzling to see that a type R can run so badly in stock ecu. Before reflash and after reflash and gg back to stock
is 2 different car. I seriously doubt that the rts is back to stock ecu. But there's nothing i can do but to order a new
ecu. Flashpro is an expensive lesson.


Maybe you can try going back to the Honda dealership to reload the stock map?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 6:10 am 
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Ya... I hope they will do it for me. Cos in my country, dealership is very particular abt all mods that one has made to their car.
They will deny all warranty and push all blames to mods that cause any failures.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:06 am 
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Location: South Africa
sc0rcher wrote:
Ya... I hope they will do it for me. Cos in my country, dealership is very particular abt all mods that one has made to their car.
They will deny all warranty and push all blames to mods that cause any failures.


Why don't you just have the knock control tuned accordingly and save yourself a lot of trouble.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:27 am 
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Hi CivicRSA..
Not that i would like to trouble myself, just tat I was wondering why a RTS can caused my car to run so badly as well.
I just wanna find out is it the stock ecu map is so badly done, or my car is seriously problematic.
When i drove my car after RTS, it is definitely don feel like a 200bhp car.. more like a hundred the most..
Somemore I had race header on... Or is my race header causing the noise when the engine tot is knock??
I seriously don't think a properly tuned knock control can solve this problem. THe only way is to increase the sensitivity to tell
ecu that the noise is normal, pls do not retard...


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:39 am 
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Location: South Africa
Well then you need to start trouble shooting. If it is your header then going to the Honda dealer with your issue will like you say most probably void your warranty.
It is no use guessing your cars power, you are going to need facts.

RTS and then measure the power on a dyno. If the power is below normal then I suggest you fit all your stock parts and see how the ecu behaves.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 7:28 pm 
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civicRSA wrote:
Well then you need to start trouble shooting. If it is your header then going to the Honda dealer with your issue will like you say most probably void your warranty.
It is no use guessing your cars power, you are going to need facts.

RTS and then measure the power on a dyno. If the power is below normal then I suggest you fit all your stock parts and see how the ecu behaves.



Yes, I second the suggestion of going back to stock, including parts in order to isolate any problems.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:34 pm
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Location: Brunei (Borneo Island)
sc0rcher wrote:
Hi CivicRSA..
Not that i would like to trouble myself, just tat I was wondering why a RTS can caused my car to run so badly as well.
I just wanna find out is it the stock ecu map is so badly done, or my car is seriously problematic.
When i drove my car after RTS, it is definitely don feel like a 200bhp car.. more like a hundred the most..
Somemore I had race header on... Or is my race header causing the noise when the engine tot is knock??
I seriously don't think a properly tuned knock control can solve this problem. THe only way is to increase the sensitivity to tell
ecu that the noise is normal, pls do not retard...


sc0rcher... due to the thickness of the race header, yes this can sometimes contribute to the knock count on 3. Especially on Flashpro.. this is due to the sensitivity in the program. The computer will not be able to differentiate false knock from real knock.

FYI, I am having this problem too... but, after tuning it... even if the knock count on 3 goes up, my power is till there. Instead of playing with the ignition first, you should try to play with the fueling to make sure the engine is getting the right A/F. Then you do ignition and back to fuel again to make sure A/F is still ok after playing with the ignition.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:36 pm 
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Location: Brunei (Borneo Island)
since the ecu with flashpro cannot differentiate the false knock (normally sounds from race headers) and the real knock... you will need a knock mic with the head-phone to do that.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:41 pm 
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august77 wrote:
since the ecu with flashpro cannot differentiate the false knock (normally sounds from race headers) and the real knock... you will need a knock mic with the head-phone to do that.


But the problem is the knock only comes after 1-2 days and get worst over time.


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