Base map for CR/VTEC EG Swap
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Base map for CR/VTEC EG Swap
I need some suggestions about the base map setup for Hondata S300. I have yet to do the swap but should be this upcoming weekend pending all the little stupid things that could screw me have shown up. Well heres what I'm using. I need suggestions about IGNITION TIMING AND FUEL AS WELL AS FUEL PRESSURE ETC. Running N/A CR/VTEC 11:5:1 c/r with a 2000 ITR cylinder head with all stock valvetrain.
The Engine:
B20B4 Block Zyglowed, Bored & Honed to 84.5mm with Torque Plate, Align Honed, Hot Tanked, Surfaced & Decked
Crank Magnafluxed, Balanced, Micropolished
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Main Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Exhaust Studs
Eagle Rods 4340
JE Forged Pistons 11:5:1 Compression Ratio
ITR Water pump
ITR Oil pump
Prodrive Oil Pump Gear
ITR Timing belt and new Belt Tensioner
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Conversion Piece
Endyn Crankcase Breather Kit
Cometic Head Gasket
2000 JDM ITR Cylinder Head
Megan 4-1 2.5" Collector Header (POS i know but this project literally broke the bank)
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
AEBS Intake Manifold Port matched to STR Throttle Body
AEM SRI Intake
STR 70mm Throttle Body
SiR2 TPS
OBD1 1994 GSR Distributor
OBD1 Integra Alternator
Hasport Engine Mounts
Spoon Sports Magnetic Drain Plugs to filter metal break in shavings
Engine Tuning and Monitoring:
Apex-I VAFC
PLX M300 Wideband O2 Sensor and Controller
Hondata S300 System
Autometer Carbon Fiber Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer Phantom Oil Temperature Gauge
Jegs Fuel Pressure Gauge
The Fuel System:
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
Holley Adjustible Fuel Pressure Regulator
STR Fuel Rail
Precision Engineering 440cc Injectors
Russell Stainless Fuel Line
New OEM Fuel filter
The Drivetrain:
1996 Integra Type-R Transmission with LSD
AI4-HDR6 ACT 6 Puck Clutch with Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
ACT Streetlite 12lb Flywheel
Driveshaft Shop Stage 2 500hp Axles
1999 Civic Si Starter
If no one can help me write a base map...then write up a pretty damn solid one for me, I'll be using 1993 Civic Si sensors for everything and this is going into my 1993 Civic Si. I could really use some help since this is a swap I'll be doing at home and driving for a week or two to get the rings seated before hitting a dyno.
The Engine:
B20B4 Block Zyglowed, Bored & Honed to 84.5mm with Torque Plate, Align Honed, Hot Tanked, Surfaced & Decked
Crank Magnafluxed, Balanced, Micropolished
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Main Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Exhaust Studs
Eagle Rods 4340
JE Forged Pistons 11:5:1 Compression Ratio
ITR Water pump
ITR Oil pump
Prodrive Oil Pump Gear
ITR Timing belt and new Belt Tensioner
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Conversion Piece
Endyn Crankcase Breather Kit
Cometic Head Gasket
2000 JDM ITR Cylinder Head
Megan 4-1 2.5" Collector Header (POS i know but this project literally broke the bank)
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
AEBS Intake Manifold Port matched to STR Throttle Body
AEM SRI Intake
STR 70mm Throttle Body
SiR2 TPS
OBD1 1994 GSR Distributor
OBD1 Integra Alternator
Hasport Engine Mounts
Spoon Sports Magnetic Drain Plugs to filter metal break in shavings
Engine Tuning and Monitoring:
Apex-I VAFC
PLX M300 Wideband O2 Sensor and Controller
Hondata S300 System
Autometer Carbon Fiber Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer Phantom Oil Temperature Gauge
Jegs Fuel Pressure Gauge
The Fuel System:
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
Holley Adjustible Fuel Pressure Regulator
STR Fuel Rail
Precision Engineering 440cc Injectors
Russell Stainless Fuel Line
New OEM Fuel filter
The Drivetrain:
1996 Integra Type-R Transmission with LSD
AI4-HDR6 ACT 6 Puck Clutch with Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
ACT Streetlite 12lb Flywheel
Driveshaft Shop Stage 2 500hp Axles
1999 Civic Si Starter
If no one can help me write a base map...then write up a pretty damn solid one for me, I'll be using 1993 Civic Si sensors for everything and this is going into my 1993 Civic Si. I could really use some help since this is a swap I'll be doing at home and driving for a week or two to get the rings seated before hitting a dyno.
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- Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:33 pm
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- Location: CT
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:33 pm
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:33 pm
I don't know...but I put in that I had 440CC injectors over the stock 280's or 220's whatever the stock ones are...I used a JDM P72 from 92-95 as the starting point...and I turned up overal fuel correction like 3% because I'll be running probably 50psi at idle...but I don't think these look very safe but I don't know enough about the software to say that yet...
Could use some help for sure...Hondata...where are yah?
Could use some help for sure...Hondata...where are yah?
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:33 pm
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:33 pm
We provide software and tools so that you can tune the car yourself, and are not going to make a calibration for every combination of engine part which exists. A basemap is just a starting point - you can make one yourself very easily by just selecting either the JDM P30 tables (B16A / Type R manifold) or P72 tables (GSR manifold), and then adjusting the injector size.
Hondata
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- Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:33 pm
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- Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Its good to see that you've got the thing working but 10.X:1 is way too rich and can easily wash out the rings and loose compression and flood the engine. You really need to tie the wideband into the o2 input and select the appropriate sensor lambda selection. This will enable the software to read the wideband output and display a percentage to adjust the air and fuel ratio via each individual cells. But be aware that us experienced tuners use the percentage to give us a general idea and we always tune in areas not necessarily cell by cell. Tuning is not as easy as most seem to believe.
Since you have spent a pretty penny on the mods you've already accomplished I would rather you take it to a Hondata tuner and have its tuning done. The small price you pay would be worth it to learn how its done rather than doing another engine again.
Just my 0.02 psi
Joe.
Joe.
Since you have spent a pretty penny on the mods you've already accomplished I would rather you take it to a Hondata tuner and have its tuning done. The small price you pay would be worth it to learn how its done rather than doing another engine again.
Just my 0.02 psi
Joe.
Joe.
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want
08 IS350 Sport Package, Levinson, Nav, Radar cruise.
94 JZA80 6speed undergoing major weight reduction AKA 911 GT2 killer.
90 DA9 B18C5 retired auto-Xer
08 IS350 Sport Package, Levinson, Nav, Radar cruise.
94 JZA80 6speed undergoing major weight reduction AKA 911 GT2 killer.
90 DA9 B18C5 retired auto-Xer
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- Posts: 11
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I've got friends that know how to tune it they just havn't been able to help me yet, plus I'm in Indiana and there is only one shop here that I know of well enough that has a dyno...but I don't want to go there. As for the hook up of the O2 sensor its a PLXM300 and its wired how it says to wire it to the Hondata, I believe you were talking about the autotune feature under the options menu....and I'm well aware 10.x:1 is way too rich I'm not stupid I just havn't used the software at all until this point and I havn't tuned until this point I'm just trying to get an idea about it and get my friends who have tuned to help me out.