Hondata

Well I went back to the stock distributor and plug wires. Still breaking up but I have more information. It is only happening when the car is fully warmed up/heat soaked. With ECT 177-180 and IAT mid 80s ran perfect, slightly rich but nothing terrible. I pulled off to the side of the road, let the c...

So last weekend I put the ECU (S300V2) that had been working properly in the car but then it started doing the same exact thing. So I'm not sure it is ECU related. I went through all the wiring. The grounds are good, cleaned and double checked them. I was watching the LEDs on the CPR box and they do...

I highly recommend that you try this in a different ECU as it sounds like the ECU's you have may not be in 100% working order. I don't really have the means to try it in another ECU. I'm not confident enough with my computer board skills to try installing or removing the S300 from an ECU. I know my...

It will not be related to the s300. What do you mean by screwed TC circuits? The TC circuits in the ECU don't work This post covers the TC issues. http://www.hondata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18176&p=79779#p79779 I think I need to rephrase this. I guess the problem isn't the S300 but t...

Within the last few days my car has started breaking up in boost/under load. This is on a car with Hondata CPR setup. I know it's ignition related because 1 of the datalogs showed a brief AFR spike over 16 with boost over 10 psi and the engine didn't grenade, AFR went right back to 12. Fuel pressure...

So figured I would add an update. I was looking around under the hood after driving the car today and noticed a very light sheen around the injector #1 seal. Touched it with my finger and found it was wet. Barely smelled of fuel but I'm guessing because it was just so little fuel. However it didn't ...

The graph appears to be a linear drop in pressure and appears to be related to temp(heat soak). It could just be your fuel pressure regulator. I had that thought. It isn't that old (less than 3 years) and is gonna piss me off if it is that. I guess I can get another one to test. Thanks for the feed...

So no ideas I take it. This is driving me nuts. AFR is fine for first 20-30 min I drive the car then it acts up and idles at high 17s to around 18 AFR. Short term trim is pegged at 10. I mean I can raise S trim to 20 or 25, about where it needs to be, but that doesn't really address the problem. Som...

Here is a section of the datalog. Note the large voltage drop at 4:32 is the fan coming on. This is normal and has been like that forever. You will notice the voltage does climb steadily back to where it needs to be. I checked the battery voltage as well as did some testing on the alternator. Both s...

Without seeing datalogs of it, it is really hard to give much advice on this. Well do you want the entire 24 minute datalog or just part of it? I just know I can't attach the entire thing. I guess I could break it into 4 or 5 sections if you want. Do you just want to see the section when fuel press...

Well disabling alternator control didn't help. I have a datalog of the issue but it's 24 minutes in length since the problem is so gradual. It's too long to post up the whole thing. How would you guys like me to handle that?

This is for a boosted 98 GSR I have listed the pertinent setup details in the text below I'm having something strange happen with with idle/low load fuel pressure once the engine has come up to temp. My pressure will start off at 38 psi (which is what base is set as) but drop about 10 psi as the eng...

Well EGRL/Analog 1 is a constant 4.35v no matter what I set test voltage at. My mulitmeter sees the correct voltage value but the ECU never sees a change. Oh well. I guess it's time for a new ECU.

I have triple checked the ELD pin but I will check again tonight when I get home from work to verify. I know B6 on my ECU is bad. EGRL is pin D12, correct? I did not see the EGRL sensor in the Hondata sensor window when I was looking checking the ELD voltage. Do I need to define it or is it possibl...

Spunkster wrote:If one input has already been damaged, there is a possibility that another is also bad. I would recommend getting a new ECU to use the s300 in.

Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I mean this one works great but I'm running out of good inputs.