Hondata

It sounds like you might want to have your tuner take a look at the calibration, although I would bet it has something to do with using the wideband for closed loop..

Hey Spunky, send me a vector file also, I want to send you some samples from my peoples..

I was talking about 800-1100hp cars.. At 500hp, you could stick with the resistor plugs and the stock distributor with no issues, assuming you have decent components (not a 10-15 year old ignitor and coil)..

There is no mention of that anywhere, so I wouldn't assume that.

I've used both with no problems, but we normally use non-resistor plugs for the cars that normally run the Pro10 boxes, as they are usually high hp cars, and the standard resistor plugs are not available in the heat range we desire (unless we want to use iridium plugs). Just be sure to mount the Pro...

Initially set it up on fixed duty cycle and figure out what duty cycles equal what boost levels. After you are done doing that, then build the duty cycle/boost lookup table or just use gear vs. duty cycle and fill in the table..

The K-Pro system does not support drive by wire by itself, it would need to be piggybacked to an ecu that does, like the TSX ecu. That would require a bit of wiring, and a bunch of money. Hondata has already temporarily suspended sales of the TSX K-Pro system as it is.. You can understand their relu...

That was the question I meant to ask today..

If your ecu and kpro worked in another car just fine, then the pricing means nothing, since you dont need another ecu. :)

Fix the problem with the car.

We only use OEM wires, even on high hp cars..

Get creative with the nitrous outputs.

If you just want to power the ecu to program it, you can do it with just A2 and A4.

The correct and safe way to do things is to dyno tune each and every car. As an informed customer, I would be upset if I took my car to a shop, had it turbocharged or supercharged, and just shipped out the door with a generic ecu reflash.

Looks like we have a challenge! :) Can you provide a link to the setup on the RLZ car? Is it built to the previous SFWD rules, or a hot rod style car? Not that it matters, my post was obviously incorrect anyway, lol..

If you disable the boost control, what does the car do then? If it still overboosts, you will need to change the wastegate spring..