Hondata

What were you doing during your datalog? If you were trying to crank it, there is no RPM signal being generated, which makes me think something in the distributor. Do you have a spare one you can try swapping in?

I do not have any wideband O2 sensor installed at all. I think the car was tuned with a wideband O2 sensor, it was on a dyno and i think they had something go into the muffler a sniffer like thing. Yes, that was a wideband. While not ideal, you can get by with no wideband. The boost cut i have trie...

Open your ECU and inspect the capacitors for leakage. If they have not been replaced yet, have them replaced now. If they have leaked electrolyte onto the board, they may have damaged some of the traces and/or surrounding components.

I have a PLX SM-AFR hooked up to D10/ELD, for monitoring purposes. I want to use the stock narrowband for closed-loop. Why? This makes totally no sense. The S300 can use the wideband signal from the PLX to run in closed loop. Here - try this tune - I made a few small edits: Changed your closed loop...

TTR wrote: ↑Thu Oct 14, 2021 7:07 am The default rate of change settings are way to slow. This is what I use, works great with widebands.

5-5-4-3
99-99-99-99
99-99-99-99

Just following up - these settings work great on my setup for running closed loop with a PLX wideband. Thanks for sharing, TTR.

Which ECU do you have?

Does your ECU have the boost controller components installed?

What specific solenoid (give the part number) are you using?

What settings are you running in the Boost Control tab?

You should be able to see some form of output if you are using gasoline with any ethanol in it...even E10 like you get at most pumps. Try setting up the display to use "Eth. %" instead of Analog 0. It's under the "Analog Inputs" drop-down when you are setting up the display. Make...

I do not really understand why there are a low and high hot boost settings, seems like there would just be a cold boost and hot boost i dont understand why. If you were using an electronic boost controller, you could have both "low boost" and "high boost" settings and can toggle...

You are using a stock MAP sensor and trying to run too much boost on it. On the long log you can see the boost flat lining at 10.8 psi around 1:48. You need to drop your boost cut to 10.5 psi so you don't max out your MAP sensor. You're also overheating (your protection is set to 212F). I would reco...

I'm pretty sure you can do what you're asking - share the output of the sensor between the gauge and the S300 inputs. I'm planning to do this for oil and fuel as well on my car. I've already got my flex fuel sensor set up like this with no issues.

Good sleuth work - glad you got it solved.

Try unplugging the IACV and starting the car. You'll get an IACV check engine light, but if the idle surge goes away, it's something in the IACV circuit.

I would just buy some Genuine Bosch EV14 injectors.

Yes, when I say timing maps, I mean the "tables" tab. Regarding how much, I'm just a guy on the internet, so take my advice for what it's worth, but yeah, try starting with 3 degrees.

You can use one of the pre-loaded B18C5 calibrations set up for turbo or supercharger and just change the injector size (you'll never get into boost, so you should be OK), or you can look in the vault for a similar existing tune to what you want.