Hondata

The MSD 6AL cannot function as the ignitor itself. You need to either run the OEM ignitor or build a solid state trigger circuit. I've built several of these circuits in the past for myself and friends' vehicles, and successfully run the 6AL with no ignitor. John @ J&S came up with this circuit:...

Excellent - thanks for the follow up, and glad you got it fixed.

Converting the ECU from auto to manual should be simple. Once the S300 is installed and the ECU is converted to manual, you'll be able to run "manual tunes" and shouldn't have any issues. Yes, you'll still need to do the wiring down by the shifter. It's been about 15 years since I did one ...

Base maps are in the software, just open a new calibration. Make sure you sync the timing as the ignition map is set up for newer Preludes with fixed timing. So pull timing out of the map. I'm doing an H22a4 swap but it will be driven off of an OBD1 system, what parameter is this that you are refer...

I would look in the vault.

Open SManager, click the Window menu, and select Vault.

Filter your search with relevant calibration details.

My only experience with bad flex fuel signal was either due to wiring or fuel aeration. The latter I experienced when I used the new sock that came with my Walbro 450 fuel pump. The sock sits vertically instead of horizontally on the bottom of the tank like the OEM one, and after I got down to about...

TTR wrote: ↑Thu Oct 14, 2021 7:07 am The default rate of change settings are way to slow. This is what I use, works great with widebands.

5-5-4-3
99-99-99-99
99-99-99-99

Thanks for sharing. I'm going to try these next time I've got the laptop plugged in.

Yes, the rate of change. I'm not sure why the rate of change needs to be different, but I found that it usually does.

Disabling the ELD will just mean the alternator stays in the high voltage output mode, so no, there won't be any negative impacts that you'll be able to notice.

The wideband will work in closed loop, you may just need to mess around with the response settings.

21 is the VTEC control solenoid. If your CX has not had an engine swap, there is no VTEC, which is why the light is on. Go into SManager and disable VTEC.

What code is it blinking? When you say no codes, I assume you mean no codes through SManager?

Sorry man, I'm not your guy for diagnosing via video chat.

What you are describing is called remote tuning. Many tuners offer this. These forums are fairly inactive other than Hondata staff and a few of us die-hard old-timers who prefer forums over FB. You may have better luck lining up a remote tuning session by googling for tuners familiar with Hondata th...

The log with the "autozone" MAP sensor shows either your calibration was not set up correct or the sensor was bad. At the start of the log (~1 second) your RPM shows 97 (I assume you're cranking) but your MAP is showing 21.1 psi. That's probably why it wouldn't run with that sensor. The lo...

Any chance you can post a log of it (barely) running and your calibration?

When you put in the AutoZone MAP sensor, I'm assuming you changed the settings in the tune back to a stock MAP, right? How about when you went back to the new Hondata 4-bar?

Have you verified your mechanical timing?