03 RSX Type-S K20A2 won't idle/run properly

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2003 Acura RSX Type-S
KPro V4 Serial#: 59745
Software Version: 4.4.9.0
ECU Part#: 37820-PRB-A06
ECU Serial#: 2068-604463
KManager Version: 4.4.9
Calibration:

stalling toda map config.kal

(163.26 KiB) Downloaded 71 times

Datalog:

stalling toda map.kdl

(171.65 KiB) Downloaded 74 times

Modifications: Ebay Cold Air Intake, K-tuned RSX K20 Race Header, Skunk 2 Mega Power RR 76MM RSX Type-S
Kpro: Delivered October 21st, 2021. Ordered October 3rd, 2021 via 'Hybrid Racing'

Problem:
I installed my Kpro V4 in my RSX Type-S on October 22nd, 2021. I registered, downloaded all drivers, chose the "Toda" base map(toda headers, intake, exhaust, stock cams, 310CC), Calibrated my TPS, Disabled Immobilizer, Uploaded Config, Key OFF, Key ON, Datalog, Start! Nothing, just keeps cranking. Tried switching to stock base map, nothing, keeps cranking... hmmm... went home, took a lunch break, looked all over for a fix, went back, reloaded toda base map with all the same configurations as before, Key OFF, Key ON, Start, IT RUNS! But it runs like absolute dog... I started it this morning and let it warm up, after it got up to temp it ran for like 2 more minutes and then started choking and dying out of no where and fell on its face in the matter of 2-3 seconds, one its warmed up it continues to break up and want to die randomly. Also, I tried driving the car in this state and it moves fine until it hits 2,000RPM before it starts violently shaking the whole car till it almost comes to a halt and the motor dies. Also, during this state if you are moving around 7-15mph and press the brake more than 20%-30% the motor casually just dies. I don't get it. It feels like it's running super lean but this is my first car and first time tuning so I'm not sure where to start, I tried dumping a little more fuel in across the table but all it did was make the A/F' ratios go from 12,13,14 to 14,15, making the car run worse. HELP is all I need... someone said that it seems i'm doing everything correct and it may be a faulty Kpro V4 but I doubt that since the car runs.

[Spunkster]

Was it running prior to installing the K-Pro?

Have you tried uploading a different calibration?

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Was it running prior to installing the K-Pro?

Have you tried uploading a different calibration?

Yes to both, the car was my daily for +9 months, and ran and drove no issues. I Ordered Kpro and sent my core ECU in which meant that my RSX was down for a whole month without running. Once I got my ECU back with Kpro on it the car no longer runs properly. She's still my daily so I need her back up and running asap :(

I tried running 2 other base maps provided by Hondata including "K20A2 Stock Engine" base map and the Hondata's equivalency base map which is "K20A2 Factory calibration" and out of the 3 maps i ran, the toda map idles the best without breaking up constantly as much as the other 2 maps I mentioned.

I'm in the process of cleaning my throttle body and IACV because I read somewhere that if you leave the RSX to sit for more than 2 weeks there's a high chance that it'll be stuck and gunked up from build up. I re-call before the RSX went down that throttle response was pretty dumpy and was showing a lot of symptoms of an IACV cleaning. Could this possibly be the culprit?

[Spunkster]

Are you using resistor or non-resistor type spark plugs?

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Are you using resistor or non-resistor type spark plugs?

I'm using resistor spark plugs.
NGK 7746 IFR7G-11KS Laser Iridium Spark Plug
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-7746-ifr7g-11ks ... spark-plug

[Spunkster]

Try cleaning the idle controller first and see if that resolves the issue.

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Try cleaning the idle controller first and see if that resolves the issue.

On it! I'll have an update on that by tomorrow! It's been crappy and rainy out all day so I haven't been able to deep-clean it yet but I will as soon as it stops :/

Is there supposed to be any lube or what looks like moisture inside the sensor because if not I may or may not be screwed... when I took the sensor off the throttle body it was already in there... :/

[Spunkster]

It should not be wet.

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It should not be wet.

Thanks, i'll address that and the valve and get back to you tomorrow!

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So I will be a bit delayed on the response because as I was removing the IACV one of the 2 bolts that secure that IACV to the Throttle Body broke... So I'm stuck trying to find a solution to this NEW problem or i'm going to have to buy a new throttle body :/

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It should not be wet.

Hello and good evening! I've gotten my IACV pristine and clean! :) New throttle body is the same and they have both been paired and carefully installed with a brand new TB(throttle body) gasket. While the car was down I installed a brand new Mishimoto Thermostat because my old one turned out to have completely trashed itself and was stuck due to one of its rubber seals getting stuck in itself >;/. Filled the radiator up with coolant and bought one of those special coolant funnel bleeders to make sure there are no air bubbles for first start. First start went decently well, car started up after a week or so if sitting and the clean IACV definitely made a difference! The car sounds a lot more smoother but unfortunately it was not my fix... After the car idling for about 3 minutes, it was getting up to temp and bubbles were coming out, I had heat on full blast and the fans as well and after a few more minutes the car died. At this point I was kinda upset so I was talking to my buddies about previous encounters I had with this car. When I bought the car back in October of 2020, I found out about 6-7 months into owning the car that the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch was just unplugged the whole time. I had no issues engaging VTEC though... We plugged it back in and it never made a difference in VTEC. After the car died on this start up I was showing which plug was unplugged and unplugged the Oil Pressure Switch then plugged it back in. After doing so, I went for my second start and I checked codes, I had P1259(VTEC System Malfunction - Oil Pressure Switch) and I noticed EVAP System - Supported > Not Complete.
The car stutters when it starts and @ 0:22 the car, as I call it "falls on its face" for a second, and caught it self and luckily didn't die, usually it chokes again and dies :/

I've Included my calibration and datalog I have along with some videos of the the 'second start':

stalling toda map 2.kal

(163.25 KiB) Downloaded 66 times

stalling toda map 2.kdl

(1.42 MiB) Downloaded 57 times

Stalling Driver's Seat: https://youtu.be/wG3QWIzhxiU
Stalling Engine Bay: https://youtu.be/DXKfcJUMeE8

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I also keep forgetting to mention this and keep forgetting myself but the car ran absolutely fine, no quirks, nothing for 9+ months prior to me installing KPro. It's the exact same ECU, motor, and modifications. All that's changed is that now the ECU has Kpro on it.

[Spunkster]

Have you tried disabling the Vtec oil Pressure in your calibration?

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Have you tried disabling the Vtec oil Pressure in your calibration?

I didn't but then I tried it today... Ran out to the car, Plugged in my laptop, ECU ON, Online >> Tools >> Download, Parameters >> VTEC >> Options >> 'VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Enabled' >> Disabled. Uploaded the calibration to my ECU, Key OFF, Key ON, START!
EVEN WORSE :(((( Back to no start, only crank, and the cranking sounds horrid, car even backfired louder than a Panzer Tank running on 1 Cylinder. Please take a gander at the video I provided at the bottom, it's a video of the whole start, the other motor you hear running in the background is an accord with jumper cables hooked up to my car because the battery didn't have enough juice in it today.

Files & Links:
https://youtu.be/eCoEmrn7Vv4

attempt 3 toda datalog.kdl

Datalog

(447.76 KiB) Downloaded 62 times

attempt 3 toda cal.kal

Calibration

(163.25 KiB) Downloaded 59 times

[Spunkster]

I would recommend that you try your ECU on a known working vehicle and see if it runs as it should. It sounds like there could be some issue on your vehicle that is causing this.