s300 and SManager software questions & answers
4 posts • Page 1 of 1
Lots going on here I’ll try to break it down best as possible. It’s a fully built N/A H22A out of the European Accord Type R that went into a USDM OBD2 97 civic dx hatchback. I just finished hooking everything up besides the IAT because it’s a pain. Yes I have it turned off in SManager for the meantime. The distributor is TD-61U, idk if it’s OBD1 or OBD2 but it has one plug and I believe it is internal coil since it’s edm? I was given a harness that was supposed to be plug and play with the swap as well, everything hooks up perfect. However I noticed the harness didn’t have the 3-2 wire conversion done for the IACV, however it has a 2 pin IACV. I went to the ecu and fixed that, blue/blk went to A14 and orange was depinned. I did this for the jumper harness as well. I have two plugs that are green/blk with a blk, one is longer and reaches perfectly around the intake so I believe it to be the IAT, the other is the perfect length for the IACV or the temp sensor. I’m unsure if the other green/blk and blk connector goes to the IACV or the temp sensor but i had that connected to the IACV and was able to start the motor with this way by giving it a little gas, it didn’t stay running longer then 10 seconds. It was only able to start the one time and wouldn’t again after, it tries though. I’m using a P06 obd1 ecu, it has a jumper harness for the OBD2 harness. I also have hondata mobile and my diagnostic codes say IAT and CKF which I think is crank position sensor. That part has to do with the dizzy, it’s edm/jdm so no sensors in the timing cover.. I also rewired what I believe was the 3 wire plug to 2 wire to the iacv. Blk/blue yellow/blk and orange. I didn’t have a spare green/blk and blk plug to use so I’m unsure if I got the positive and negative correct on it. I tried plugging that one in and I end up getting a code for the iacv. I also have a brand new iacv from a b18 on hand as well. It’s a 2 pin. Does anyone know what I need to do to make this start and run properly? I can’t seem to disable anything other then the alternator control and IAT in the SManager too.
- image.jpg (1.7 MiB) Viewed 117 times
- image.jpg (1.64 MiB) Viewed 117 times
- image.jpg (1.59 MiB) Viewed 117 times
- image.jpg (1.79 MiB) Viewed 117 times
It sounds like you need to trace all the wires to the correct locations and add any that are missing. If you are unsure of how to do this, I would recommend taking it to a shop that is familiar with these types of swaps and wiring.
Okay well I’ve got to a point where I have no engine check light, no DTCs on the mobile app either. I realized though that hondata on my computer doesn’t seem to be recognizing my ecu or car. When I turn the key over I see my injector ratio go up on my app but I don’t see it on the computer. Says driver installed, and that it’s online.. green flashing indicator light too. I don’t have money for a shop to look at it
Okay so I finally got everything wired correctly I think. TPS reads, I was unable to calibrate it perfectly from 0 at Minimum and 100 at maximum, ended up with 0.12 min and 96.62 max. My map sensor is reading at 0.1, I’m thinking it’s bad and that’s why my motor won’t start any more. For some reason I accidentally plugged the EGR connector onto the tps, it would start up and idle at 1600-2000 rpm. That was before I changed the connection, now it will barely start and it runs around 500-800 rpm when I can get it to run. I’m also seeing a red value on my ignition tables, and I have the distributor error check on smanager. I don’t have resources or money to tow my vehicle to a shop