D16z6, 14.8psi, 250whp 277hp.video! What do you guys think?

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hjdanzi
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D16z6, 14.8psi, 250whp 277hp.video! What do you guys think?

Post by hjdanzi » Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:45 pm

Hey guys, this is the video i made of the last tune i made.

Let me tell you something...

This car was already "tuned", by a SCAMMER and it was a disaster.. It made 243whp with 25psi!!!! And had everything wrong... 550cc injectors configured as stock 240cc.

Hondata 3map sensor configured as a 4 map...

All ignition curves crossed each other.. had detonation and pinging.. and ran extra lean... especially at 25psi.

And the Chinnesse wastegate was broken. So...

First of all, I made the owner of the car buy a new 38mm tial Wastegate with a 19psi spring. Sadly Tial sent a 15psi double spring, so we tuned the car up to 15psi... well 14.8 to be exact.

So, i made a brand new basemap... configured the rc's 550cc injectors with the proper values, i re-configured the map sensor as it had to be (hondata/omnipower 3bar map sensor), and did a good conservative basemap.

I put it in his hondata, erasing the previous one of course and started...

Let me tell you how the day went... step by step...

First, I joined the customer 6:30am. He doesn’t know anything about mechanics, so I had to replace the ripped chinnesse Wastegate, for the USA TIAL’S 38mm wastegate with 2 springs (14.8 – 15 psi in total).

Then, I installed a cheap mechanical boost gauge, just to see if hondata was reading the map sensor right…

Then I fixed the blow off valve, which was jammed.

After that, I uploaded my custom basemap… And started the car… The car was sitting there since last week, so it was very cold.

It stalled… I went and play with the Advance features (Crank fuel compensation, Tip in compensation, temperature/idle etc. etc. The temperature vs idle parameters is very important here, cause im not playing with normal idle.. im playing with cold idle. So its different.

After a few attemps (half an hour lol); the car was smoothly idling at 14.5/7:1.-

We let it warm till normal operating temperature was achieved, and then we shut it off.

This was a good time to save the file as streettune1

Then we fired it up again, to check the idle in normal temperature. It was good.

After that, we started street tuning the thing, and everything was going very good.

The Wastegate was working right now, so I was right the other time when I said the wastegate was broken.

After that, we stop and had launch.

Then we went to the dyno…

First pull.. it made 236whp or so… I think it was very good, cause as I said it was a basemap made by me from zero, and as I always say I don’t play with timing in the street so, I guess it was good.

Then I starting finding the MBT. And after 5 pulls.. it was found…

It pulled 245whp then… Now it was time to lean it out a little, since it was on 10.80…

After 2 more pulls, I got the 250whp, I left the mixture at 11.90… maybe some of you guys may say it is to rich.. but safety first.. besides.. the guy was ultra-happy.

In the very last pull.. the one you do to check if the 250whp were real, or if it was just luck lol… we heard a big boom at the 6500rpms or so.. and I almost shitted my pants… I said.. FUCK! I BLEW THE ENGINE! (Run Forest, run!!!)… So I carefully went to the engine and it sounded normal… I touched everying, looked at the sparkplugs and then I touch one of the intercooler’s coupler (the elbow one) and it was broken.. it had a “scarface cut” very very long… in fact, we could remove it without loosening the clamps.. so you can imagine the damage. The problem with this coupler was that it was the only one that wasn’t silicone. So we replaced it, and did the last pull…

250whp and 277hp @ 6600 14.8psi

Remember that with the previous tune, the car did in the same dyno 243whpo at 25psi!!! So making 250whp at 14.8 is a great number IMHO.

I know that you guys up there can make a d16 turbo pull like 400whp at 15psi.. but here, in Argentina.. its a little bit difficult.. cause not all the parts are brand names, the dyno's are all inercial, and everytrhing is so damn expensive. (1 dollar equals 4 pesos).

So having a car that came out of factory with 115whp... and making it pull 250whp SAFELY!!!!; i guess its not bad at all.

The guy was happy as a fag with 2 asses,

Can you imagine it!.. a 110whp car, tuned to pull 250whp, with only 14.8 psi?!.. I think its awesome!!! I know that this is common in USA, and maybe they get like 400whp with 15 psi.. but for me… in Argentina.. it’s a kick ass work! And im like a hero here!!!

On a side note, in this tune.. I touched EVERYTHING! I mean every single little value that could be touched with hondata, has been touched… I mean.. every single parameter option was tuned in this one.

Well… Here’s the vid.. I hope you guys like it, play it loud mothafu$#er!!!!

http://www.vimeo.com/13041565

Questions, Critics, Suggestions and props are always welcomed!

Please be gentle!

http://www.publicgaragetuning.com.ar

newsoltsc
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Post by newsoltsc » Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:00 pm

Those are good numbers man. Congrats!

I made 230whp 190ftq at 13psi on 91 pump gas with a bad distributor :(
-Jose

hjdanzi
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Post by hjdanzi » Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:07 pm

newsoltsc wrote:Those are good numbers man. Congrats!

I made 230whp 190ftq at 13psi on 91 pump gas with a bad distributor :(
Thanks a lot man!!!!! I deeply appreciate your words!!!

Im preety sure that if you had a working dizzy you would probably made a lot more than me! Congratulations to you to brother!

newsoltsc
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Post by newsoltsc » Tue Jul 06, 2010 3:21 pm

Thanks :)

I have a new dizzy; just waiting till next month so that I can afford to be on the dyno again. Haha!
-Jose

hjdanzi
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Post by hjdanzi » Tue Jul 06, 2010 3:40 pm

newsoltsc wrote:Thanks :)

I have a new dizzy; just waiting till next month so that I can afford to be on the dyno again. Haha!
Good luck!!!

newsoltsc
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Post by newsoltsc » Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:58 pm

Thanks! :)

Im shooting for 300whp 8)
-Jose

hjdanzi
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Post by hjdanzi » Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:21 pm

newsoltsc wrote:Thanks! :)

Im shooting for 300whp 8)
Im preety sure you will do it man!

diSTiNCt
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Post by diSTiNCt » Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:17 pm

Very good work my friend.
Nice numbers!

hjdanzi
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Post by hjdanzi » Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:22 pm

diSTiNCt wrote:Very good work my friend.
Nice numbers!
Thanks a lot bro! I deeply appreciate your compliment! Thanks a bunch!

alba-tuning
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Post by alba-tuning » Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:44 am

hjdanzi wrote:
diSTiNCt wrote:Very good work my friend.
Nice numbers!
Thanks a lot bro! I deeply appreciate your compliment! Thanks a bunch!
nice work man, also don't worry too much about the a/f ratios being to lean or too rich as a safety net. Each engine will operate differently and each engine will like different a/f ratios. Some like them lean some like them rich. Now that doesn't mean you should run 14.7 af at Wot or 10 for that matter. You have a pretty big window tuning with fuel before you mess the engine up with fuel. You have to watch out for correct timing with boost and watch how fast egts and temps rise up. What kind of dyno was this one. If it has a load bearing than it should be able to hold full throtle steady rpm so you can tune it a lot more effective and find your safe point. See where your making the most power at for timing and fuel and them add or subract more until u gain or lose power. After that see how much of a window you have before you actually start loosing power or knocking and set the right values at the lowest safest possible.
na is gay, turbo n spray

hjdanzi
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Post by hjdanzi » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:24 am

alba-tuning wrote:
hjdanzi wrote:
diSTiNCt wrote:Very good work my friend.
Nice numbers!
Thanks a lot bro! I deeply appreciate your compliment! Thanks a bunch!
nice work man, also don't worry too much about the a/f ratios being to lean or too rich as a safety net. Each engine will operate differently and each engine will like different a/f ratios. Some like them lean some like them rich. Now that doesn't mean you should run 14.7 af at Wot or 10 for that matter. You have a pretty big window tuning with fuel before you mess the engine up with fuel. You have to watch out for correct timing with boost and watch how fast egts and temps rise up. What kind of dyno was this one. If it has a load bearing than it should be able to hold full throtle steady rpm so you can tune it a lot more effective and find your safe point. See where your making the most power at for timing and fuel and them add or subract more until u gain or lose power. After that see how much of a window you have before you actually start loosing power or knocking and set the right values at the lowest safest possible.
Thanks a lot for your input bro! I deeply appreciate it, and i agree 100%.

The thing is that we dont have load type dynos... just inercial ones.. and they are very shitty (Here in my country).. thats why i always street tune the car, and the dyno tune it.

Thanks a lot!

Luke
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Post by Luke » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:39 am

great job, hjdanzi! congrats

i saw in the vid, that you're using the LM-2.

can you give me hint for the config of the RPM reading??

with the settings told in the manual it won't work for me.

best regards from Germany,
Luke

hjdanzi
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Post by hjdanzi » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:47 am

Luke wrote:great job, hjdanzi! congrats

i saw in the vid, that you're using the LM-2.

can you give me hint for the config of the RPM reading??

with the settings told in the manual it won't work for me.

best regards from Germany,
Luke
Hey Luke! Thanks a lot buddy!

I had the same problem with the rpm readings at first... Did you notice that the manual says that the "default" is the usual config? well.. use the other option. It works like a charm.

To be more specific, the manual says...

Rising Edge is the most common way to measure a tach signal. If you find that your readings are very erratic you should change this setting to Falling Edge. Press Enter. .... SO I USE FALLING EDGE. All the other options, i use the default ones.

I hope that helps!

Greetings from Argentina!

Luke
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Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:24 am
Location: Dorsten/Germany

Post by Luke » Wed Jul 14, 2010 12:59 am

Thx Buddy!

I'll test that later on. Would be great, if that works.

I have to take some time to test that... on the last tune there wasn't any :D

Have you maybe a comparison between the power messurment with the LM-2 and your dyno?

A friend of mine is using an iPhone with an app called "dynolicious" and told me, that it's working just fine.
Another buddy is using a road dyno device with an inductive clamp like the LM-2 and those results where very good.

Last question: where to take your ground for the LM-2 from? (yellow cable). just want to gain my productivity :D

best regards,
Luke

hjdanzi
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Post by hjdanzi » Wed Jul 14, 2010 9:11 am

Luke wrote:Thx Buddy!

I'll test that later on. Would be great, if that works.

I have to take some time to test that... on the last tune there wasn't any :D

Have you maybe a comparison between the power messurment with the LM-2 and your dyno?

A friend of mine is using an iPhone with an app called "dynolicious" and told me, that it's working just fine.
Another buddy is using a road dyno device with an inductive clamp like the LM-2 and those results where very good.

Last question: where to take your ground for the LM-2 from? (yellow cable). just want to gain my productivity :D

best regards,
Luke
Hey bro! No i didnt test the lm-2 results and the dyno. I heard about that iphone app, and ive also heard about the plx devices... but for now, im good lol.

I hooked the LM-2 ground to the ECU GROUND (in my tuner harness).. cause i first tapped it in the o2 ground, but had very erratic readings. Now is much more stable.

Thanks for writing!

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