Fuel cut out at 2k rpm?

s300 and SManager software questions & answers
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EKJOE
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:12 am

Fuel cut out at 2k rpm?

Post by EKJOE »

Hey guys,
I apologize if this question has been anwsered before, But I searched hard for an anwser and I havent found anything.

Heres whats going on, I have a fully built ls/vtec in my 97 EK hatch running a p72 with the s300. Under light throttle in any gear...The motor just cuts out at 2k rpm's. If I give it 50% throttle it doesnt do it......And it only does this at 2k.

I have seen this issue before with an LS swap into an EK running the wrong ECU.....and once my buddy put the right ECU in the car, it stopped doing it...So I know this is a tuning issue. It almost seems like a fuel cut out at 2k or a rev limit even.

The car is un-tuned, It only has 350 miles on it and im running a usdm p72 basemap with the injector size modifed and the idle duty cycle set...Those are the only things I messed with.

Im a newb to the s300 so hopefully someone can tell me how to fix this until I get the car on the dyno and properly tuned.
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Spunkster
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Location: Hondata

Post by Spunkster »

Have you checked for error codes? Either you have a lean protection set, some kind of error, or you have th MAP and TPS plugs swapped.
EKJOE
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:12 am

Post by EKJOE »

Error codes are handled. Only the knock sensor is disabled. Everything else is correct...Including the IACV. The motor runs like a champ.

Lean protection is not checked.

Some kind of error?

The map and tps plugs hmmm...Are they exactly the same? How would I know if they were swapped around? Wouldnt there be a CEL if they were swapped?
GTMcoupe
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Location: In a Kitcar in Oxford in the UK

Post by GTMcoupe »

Have you got an incomplete emmision system on or anything like that? what im thinking is the ecu opeing the purge valve and instead of it being connected its just causing an air leak or simular. I was caught out with a map once operating a normal parameter which I was using for nitrous activation seeing I had loaded my non nitrous map and had left the system actived it activated the fuel solenoids when it activated the purge valve, took a little of intensive looking at my datalogs to see the switching.

This caused no errors obviously as the ECU thought it was under normal conditions.

WEST
Its Small, Its Red, Its Mid engined, It has a B18 fitted, 250hp+per tonne + nitrous
EKJOE
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:12 am

Post by EKJOE »

interesting you mention the purge solenoid valve. I removed mine. Could that be the cause of all this?
EKJOE
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:12 am

Post by EKJOE »

I found the problem or part of the problem causing this.

I sat in a parking lot the other night and tuned the low speed fuel tables from idle to 3k. The driving got a TON smoother and I could actually drive slow and hold a steady throttle.

This was short lived, I was racing a mustang gt a few nights later and when I crossed into VTEC I threw a code 7. I figured...Hey, I need to re-calibrate the TPS now. So the next day after work I calibrated the TPS to stock specs.

The driving got AWFUL after that, Cant hold a steady throttle at all...At any speed in any gear.

So I started thinking...Ok I have an Blox 66mm TB, Blox TPS and S300. So I'll try to calibrate the TPS this time using all 3, Instead of just measuring the voltage on the TPS.

So last night I broke the TPS loose, Broke the idle set screw loose and fired up the Smanager so I could constantly refresh the TPS readings..All with the car not running.

I didnt measure the voltages on the TPS this time, Instead I adjusted it and the idle screw until I got Smanager to read 0% closed throttle,When it was indeed closed and 90% WOT.

Im like...ok great! I got it calibrated right this time because the computer is seeing where the throttle really is now....Wrong. I start the car up and the idle is now screwed...up at 1700 and not going down.

I took it out for a drive anyways and it was back to being smooth again but I still threw a code 7 when hitting the VTEC crossover.....and my idle never calmed down.

So here's my question's.

1. Did I calibrate my TPS the proper way for having an 66mm TB and Hondata?

2. If not, What is the proper way to calibrate the TPS when using a larger TB than stock and Hondata?

3. Why would I throw a code 7 at VTEC cross over? I cant find anything on this. To me, It seems like it would have nothing to do with VTEC and everything to do with where the throttle is when I throw the code 7...Which my throttle was floored.
EKJOE
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:12 am

Post by EKJOE »

So today, I got back down to business of trying to figure out what the real cause of all this mess really is.

I swapped in the right throttle cable finally and calibrated it and the TB, The new cable is from a 99 civic si and I took out the old integra one since the bracket didnt line up with the skunk2 intake and It couldnt be adjusted properly because of its length.

I believe the root of all this is electrical. Possibly in the engine harness.

How about this. When you stand outside the car and measure the tps voltage for fully closed (.45v) and while measuring it someone shakes or sits in the car causing any kind of vibration the voltage jumps to .8 - .9 and does not return to .45 unless the ignition is turned off then back on again. Keep in mind I also tested this with the tps rotated all the way counter clockwise which should read .15 - .2v just to make sure it was not the sensor moving that cause's this major fluctuation in voltage when any vibrations hit the car.

Ok so this problem brings on alot of questions. Why has the s300 been locking up while datalogging during driving? It used to only lock up when I turned my blower motor on and that relay clicked thats right by the blower motor and ECU. I attributed this problem to the blower motor resistor mysteriously missing and no plug for it can be found...WTF, Where did the resistor plug go?

But I have been having new electrical problems lately. Two things have changed. I installed a car audio system, 2 amps 0gauge the whole way and 140 amp alternator. I replaced all engine grounds with 4 gauge. And I had a car alarm installed.

Now you may say, Hey the car audio could cause interference relating to some of my problems....But I dont believe that to be true. I have absolutely zero problems when that stereo is whaling....No lights dimming, Nothing. Its like the amps are not even there. The stereo is wired correct.

The funny part is, The bass. The bass causes crazy vibration. And my MPH & RPM needles in the gauge cluster have been cutting in and out when the bass is hitting, Not only that but its also causing the lights in the cluster to intermittently come on and off.

So vibration, Is causing whatever my real problem is to rear its ugly head and make my life miserable. Im about to rip apart my whole dash tonight.

The alarm has a shock sensor, Which works off vibration. But I was having the gauge cluster issue before the car alarm was installed. And I couldnt see the car alarm shock sensor adding voltage to my TPS...It just doesnt add up.

So, Where ya at Spunkster? You probly dont want anything to do with this one do ya? Hahahaha. Im writing my f*#king ass off here, so someone's gotta respond.
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Spunkster
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Post by Spunkster »

It sounds like you may have multiple issues all going on at the same time. Try your ECU in a known good vehicle, once you know that is workign ok you can concentrate on finding the problem in your car. You have your work cut out for you. You may want to have this professionally diagnosed.
Last edited by Spunkster on Tue Jun 09, 2009 3:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
boosted chemist
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Post by boosted chemist »

Im having a really similar problem with my car, partial throttle, 3500 rpms it does the same thing. And funny it started after i recalibrated my tps. I also have a dissy king dissy and I am in the process of replacing it with an oem honda.
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