Hey everyone, first time posting here. Real quick on my car, its a 94 honda accord with the F22B2 motor. Ive put a turbonetics kit on it, along with AEM fuel rail, high flow filter, and regulator. Also have RCeng 440 injectors, and high flow fuel pump. For the ignition, MSD ignition, Crane Cams cap and rotor.
Theres more but I thinks thats the main stuff.
Anyway for the problem. The car was running fine for a while (as good as can be without putting on DYNO, different story), but then yesterday, I installed a 3bar MAP sensor and now the car is running pig rich at idle which is making the car die cause its flooding itself out. Installing the new sensor, should I have to change anything besides checking 3bar MAP in ROM editor? Is there a difference between MAPs, causing the ECU to not know what to do?
Will
Problem after 3bar MAP install
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ItalianAccord
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ItalianAccord
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I took it for a drive, and at idle it shows about 399-535mbar, when I step on the gas it fluctuates. Main thing I noticed is that when Im in graph view my, map, o2, ign and inj are all over the place. before even though the cars not been tuned on a dyno it had some consistancy.
If tuning is the only thing, my biggest problem is getting to a dyno. I have ROM editor and everything to do it but still I need help. Do you know if its possible to do runs and send the logs with my tune to possibly get it as close as possible or am I just S.O.L till I get to a dyno?
If tuning is the only thing, my biggest problem is getting to a dyno. I have ROM editor and everything to do it but still I need help. Do you know if its possible to do runs and send the logs with my tune to possibly get it as close as possible or am I just S.O.L till I get to a dyno?
Re: Problem after 3bar MAP install
Simply put, you can't go from a stock MAP sensor to a 3 bar and not tune it. The resolution is completely different. It will need to be retuned completely.ItalianAccord wrote:
Anyway for the problem. The car was running fine for a while (as good as can be without putting on DYNO, different story), but then yesterday, I installed a 3bar MAP sensor and now the car is running pig rich at idle which is making the car die cause its flooding itself out. Installing the new sensor, should I have to change anything besides checking 3bar MAP in ROM editor? Is there a difference between MAPs, causing the ECU to not know what to do?
Will
You can switch MAP sensors without retuning. The problem is that a lot of people use the GM 3 bar, of which there are several variants which do read differently from each other and the Motec sensor. We're not trying to push the Motec sensor - it is just that we see a lot of problems using the GM sensors.
There are other problems with your installation if you are getting 400-500 mbar at idle and the other sensor readings vary. Check the MAP signal with the ignition on and the engine off. You should get 1000 mbar, otherwise your scalar/offset are wrong, you have a 2 bar sensor or your live in Colorado. Check the 5V output from ECU (to the MAP or TPS) is steady at 5V). Put the old MAP sensor back in and see if the problem is feeding the MAP sensor (you wire in both connectors so you can swap back easily, right?). Also, make sure that both sensors are not plugged in at the same time (if you did wire in both connectors).
There are other problems with your installation if you are getting 400-500 mbar at idle and the other sensor readings vary. Check the MAP signal with the ignition on and the engine off. You should get 1000 mbar, otherwise your scalar/offset are wrong, you have a 2 bar sensor or your live in Colorado. Check the 5V output from ECU (to the MAP or TPS) is steady at 5V). Put the old MAP sensor back in and see if the problem is feeding the MAP sensor (you wire in both connectors so you can swap back easily, right?). Also, make sure that both sensors are not plugged in at the same time (if you did wire in both connectors).
Hondata
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ItalianAccord
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Hondata wrote:You can switch MAP sensors without retuning. The problem is that a lot of people use the GM 3 bar, of which there are several variants which do read differently from each other and the Motec sensor. We're not trying to push the Motec sensor - it is just that we see a lot of problems using the GM sensors.
There are other problems with your installation if you are getting 400-500 mbar at idle and the other sensor readings vary. Check the MAP signal with the ignition on and the engine off. You should get 1000 mbar, otherwise your scalar/offset are wrong, you have a 2 bar sensor or your live in Colorado. Check the 5V output from ECU (to the MAP or TPS) is steady at 5V). Put the old MAP sensor back in and see if the problem is feeding the MAP sensor (you wire in both connectors so you can swap back easily, right?). Also, make sure that both sensors are not plugged in at the same time (if you did wire in both connectors).
Well I checked the mbar today with the engine turned off/ignition on and it was at 528 mbar, it was raining so I didnt check the voltage yet. Now does that mean its the wrong MAP since it only read 528 mbar or could it be bad wiring.
As far as the Motec MAP, where is the best place to get one, I looked at a few of the dealers but they dont say "Motec", just 3bar MAP. Do you know the part # so I can know for sure I get the right one this time.
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ItalianAccord
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Hondata wrote:If you do not get around 1000 mbar with the ignition on and engine off there is a problem, either with the MAP sensor, the MAP sensor wiring or the MAP sensor calibration. What scalar and offset are you using for the MAP sensor?
I gotta be honest with you, I have no idea what scalar and offset are. Is that a configuration I needed to change within ROM Editor?
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ItalianAccord
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ItalianAccord
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OK for starters, the MAP I have now is a SVE 3 bar MAP. Do you know if that one is compatible, it says in the paper work it is. Im still trying to find a Motec sensor but have had no luck.
As from what HONDATA posted before, I checked the voltage between the power and ground plugs and it was 4.95 volts. I also checked the ground pin to the signal pin and it showed the same thing. Im going to hook my old sensor up tmw for temporary but I need to figure out the problem with the 3bar cause running 11 psi is not going to cut it for me....I need more boost.
As from what HONDATA posted before, I checked the voltage between the power and ground plugs and it was 4.95 volts. I also checked the ground pin to the signal pin and it showed the same thing. Im going to hook my old sensor up tmw for temporary but I need to figure out the problem with the 3bar cause running 11 psi is not going to cut it for me....I need more boost.
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ItalianAccord
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I personally don't agree with this. Either way, the boost columns would need to be tuned for the increase in boost.Hondata wrote:You can switch MAP sensors without retuning. The problem is that a lot of people use the GM 3 bar, of which there are several variants which do read differently from each other and the Motec sensor. We're not trying to push the Motec sensor - it is just that we see a lot of problems using the GM sensors.
My issue is the Motec sensor is so much harder to get. I can't find it anywhere. I contacted 2 hondata dealers and both said just get the GM 3 Bar.
What about the AEM 3.5 bar or 5 bar sensor? These OK?
the GM 3 bar part # that works very well is GM#12223861. all the others will cause you immense problems. the hondata (motec) sensor comes with a wire harness. if you order the GM sensor and the correct harness it will cost more than the hondata sensor. most just deal with this because of the availability. switching sensors (the CORRECT sensor) is as simple as Derek has stated. we've verified it on the dyno. 10 psi on stock and 10 psi on hondata sensor yield the same a-f curve.