97 US Integra Type R with some work done need help please.

[masterofphones]

Does anyone have a basemap for a 97 ITR with Apexi V-tec Controller? I tried both 2001 ITR and 98 jdm b18 basemap. They used to work at least the JDM one
. Now it doesn't revolve rev right. Revs a are slow and I get a knock sensor error 23, can anyone help me. This started happening yesterday and I had a fresh oil change but was forces to drive and burned over a quart of in 80 miles of driving. I think maybe if I could setup a good ne points on the controller it might rev right. What does everyone else think?

[masterofphones]

Here is my wiring what do I need to do?

[masterofphones]

V-tec wires to wires going into ECU. What do I need to do?

[AREA876]

Just Unplugging the apexi vtec the engine will not start because you have to rewire (back to oem) the signal to the map sensor which the apexi taps into. Try to find a wire diagram for the apexi vtec control.

[AREA876]

If it was wired according to the manual the map signal wire (ECU wire) should be of the same color and should be able to plug together

[masterofphones]

Ok I think I can wire the V-tec controller back correctly. When my V-tec sylonoid wire came out this other tuner wired it directly to the S300 ECU and clipped the wire so today I will work on unclipping the V-tec sylonoid wire and put it back into the V-tec controller. Don't know how to unhook/unclip the wire since it looks like they crimped it with a plastic connector unless I pull real hard or cut it leave less wire and there is not that much left coming from the wire harness going to the ECU for the V-tec sylonoid wire.

Or I could try to remove the V-tec controller which seems a lot harder considering it's spliced into so many wires and I don't even know how to unsplice them correctly since there all connected with a metal type connector.

As you can tell I don't know much about wiring terms.

Also still not sure any of this is what is causing my cars problem of not getting proper reving power or if the S300 ECU is not messed up itself. Thanks for all comments they are appreciated and I'm trying my best. Very new to all this tuning and wiring stuff please keep helping me ans I'll keep you posted.

There is a guy who wants to charge me $40 to unhook V-tec controller which I think is crazy and believe I can do myself with a little guidance and I have the instruction manual.

He also wants to charge me I think $250 to tune it and $50 for dyno which I'm confused about because $50 for a dyno sounds really cheap and he's supposely giving me a good deal because I get so much work done at his buddies shop. But I feel if he was hooking me up he just take the V-tec controller out for free or at least not charge me for it if I'm going to have him dyno and tune my car. I don't think he's a Hondata dealer and I know a Hondata dealer down the street that tunes and synod for $300 so don't see where this guys giving me any kind of deal. I rather take it to the Hondata dealer but he's booked the rest of the week but I just may hold off till he's available and don't really want to spend $300 right now cause I'm so broke.

I just hope I can get it running decent again for now till I make more money

This other tuner guy non had at a dealer that I know of also said Hondata basemaps are pretty much not good at all. After I told him I was using the 2001 ITR BASEMAP.

Anyway keep you updated after I try some stuff with the wiring today.

[masterofphones]

@Area876

Subject: 97 US Integra Type R with some work done need help please.

If it was wired according to the manual the map signal wire (ECU wire) should be of the same color and should be able to plug together

Are you talking about just putting the S300 back together without V-tec controller and that those wires are the same color and should be able to plug together? I'm guessing you have to be and I they can't just plug back together without some kind of wire connector or or electrical tape. I'm not experienced with wiring and I bought some type of connectors from advance Auto parts and might try that. I don't have a crimper to use on button connectors is what I'm going to try, but maybe just use pliers instead.

Im just worried if I take the V-tec controller out the car won't start like when I unplugged its wiring harness. I don't know if it's the 2001 ITR basemap Hondata has setup or if it's USDM or JDM. My ITR is a 97 USDM and for the money I spent on the S300 I think they should have a basemap for calibration on all. Vehicles they sell the unit for.

Let me know exactly what you meant in your statement. Thanks for trying to help.

[masterofphones]

This car has multiple issues.

You must remove the vtec controller and get the wiring corrected so that it runs.

You have a major problem if it is burning a quart of oil right after an oil change and it has nothing to do with the ECU.

I think it did that because of how messed up it was while I was driving with the revs not doing proper power. I'm guessing fuel to air ratio being messed up between the V-tec controller and S300 pushing the engine extremely hard and I had to drive it like that basically 60 miles one way and 80 miles back another way at all at once because I had no way to try to fix it at the time had a DR appointment and then had to drive home. It has eaten oil before when just using 5w 30full systhetic but not in that short of a distance more like a 1000 miles probably have 1/2 quart to a quart. So this time I just used a heavier weight 10w 40 Castrol GTX non synthetic and that's what happens during that drive lost at least 1/2 quart after fresh oil change. Guy I bought car from says he only used 10w 50 Castrol and with the engine work that's what it needs. I don't know why and thought that was high so I started with 10w 40. I live in Florida so I don't think I need 5w anything. Another guy said to use 20w 50. I can't even find 10w50 at advance Auto parts or Autozone or Walmart. I have seen 20w 50 though. The only reason I think I Burt oil before when using 5w 30 full synthetic was because I was driving it so hard and over 100 Mph a lot in a 1000 miles losing a half quart. Is that normal when driving it as hard as I was? What size weight oil do you suggest? Synthetic or Non? How many miles do you suggest to change the oil? What oil filter you suggest? I was just going to use the 10w 40 Castrol GTX non systhetic and regular fram oil filter or maybe order a regular one from Honda. I heard if you use one for the K20 engine it gives you more power. Then I was just going to change all that every 2500 miles. Sorry if I posted to much other stuff about oil on the S300 forum but I was explaining why I think it used that much oil because of tuning and V-tec calibration and wiring off and got carried away with explaining my issues and questions with oil. I hope I don't have a more serious issue then tuning and wiring. What could it be? I kind of thought that maybe too but I just had new spark plugs and wires put in for a misfire and I I wouldn't think it would have anthoner misfire or spark plug issue that fast. What do you recommend I check to figure out what the problem maybe if it's not the V-tec controller or wiring or ECU?

[masterofphones]

Rwired the Vtec sylonoid to the vtec controler and it runs a little better the vtec doesnt kick in like it did with the S300 though and Im still having issues mostly I think with the low cam because low rpms dont push right and fluttler gas in and out is what it feels like. I think it something with the vtec controller running with the s300 and then maybe just needs to be tuned with both to work right. Im not going through all that trouble and dont think most tuners would eithier. Ill try to take the vtec controller out and hook everything up to the s300 and see what happens. I just been out of town and havent had the time to take all those wires apart and rewire it though. Thanks for everyones help. Any other advice please feel free to add.

[masterofphones]

CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME! I UNWIRED THE VTEC CONTROLLER. RE WIRED THE S300 CALIBRATED IT WITH THE STOCK 2001 ITR DISABLED THE KNOCK SENSOR AND THE CAR IS STILL NOT RUNNING RIGHT! NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS AND NO ERROR CODES. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME GET MY CAR RUNNING SOMEWHAT RIGHT SO I CAN AT LEAST MAKE IT TO A HODATA DEALER SO THEY CAN TUNE IT! ANY SUGGESTION ANY IDEAS WHY ITS NOT WORKING RIGHT. IT IS A 97 ITR BUT THERE IS NO STOCK CAILBRATION FOR THAT ONLY THE 2001 ITR IN ON THE S300! THE VTEC CONTROLLER HOOKED UP WORKED BETTER THAN THIS.

[Spunkster]

Please do not use all CAPS.

The differences between a 97 and 2001 are so small it will not matter. That calibration should work. Since you are still having issues, it sounds like you have wiring and or mechanical issues to resolve. You need to get this car to a shop that can assist you with all this as you seem to be in over your head.

[masterofphones]

Please do not use all CAPS.

The differences between a 97 and 2001 are so small it will not matter. That calibration should work. Since you are still having issues, it sounds like you have wiring and or mechanical issues to resolve. You need to get this car to a shop that can assist you with all this as you seem to be in over your head.

Sorry about CAPS. I was just typing and it was on. It's hard to get to a shop when the closest one is about 40 miles that knows anything about Hondata. My wiring should be fine or I figure it would show up in S300 error codes. I'll keep rechecking everything and I hate to spend at least $300 or more to tune it and then extra on the wiring that if something is off. Not to mention I'm broke right now. I'll keep working on it and trying to see what I can do. There is no way you can get Proven Power in Tampa to give me some kind of discount on tuning and fixing any little wiring issues is there?

[AREA876]

Why is it so important for you to use the Apexi vtec control, Hondata s300 does that and a whole lot more. You should focus on wiring
the ECU without the vtec control and see if it's any better

[masterofphones]

So I havent really touch the car in a month. If its wired right with the S300 what calibrations should I use with my setup and should I adjust to go get tuned? I got no error codes last time. Wiring isnt soder just trying butt connectors for now may add wiring and just electrical tape since running out of wire and dont think I want to try and soder it. Left some of the connectors hooked up wired from vtec controller because Im pretty sure they were hooked up right and I uninstalled what was necessary. Last start its like black smoke comes out. Runs decent I guess still doesnt seem right and like I believe the low RPMS are running wrong high ok. I know it needs tuning but what is the safest way to calibrate/tune with my setup I have on the car? I dont want to tow my car is so low and Im going to have to drive. Please help.

[masterofphones]

Yeah my battery was dead it does that. I kind of think it resets the ECU. I got a knock sensor again I am running a P28 ECU. I turned it off and cleared the code. No other codes car still running all wrong. Very low power fuel on gas. On start exhaust sounds messed up. The tables are all messed up from what I can tell. I'll probably try and have it towed even though I can drive it if I can. I feel though if its messed up already in the engine its just going to be messed up. This is all running on 2001 ITR base map. I'm hoping for the best am so confused on how any of this happened. I tried to attach my datalog if anyone can help it be great.