H22 Calibration I/E/HFC
H22 Calibration I/E/HFC
I basically need a stock h22 map or a h22 map with intake/exhaust/hi-flow cat. The stock h22 file in smanager is sh*t. The stock GSR file runs the h22 motor better than the h22 file. somebody help!!!!
I could use this too! I've been trying to tweak on the GSR map and it's taking a lot of work to get my car running right. Getting knock in almost all cells...
The H22 map wouldn't run my H22 very well at all!
Here's the calibration I'm currently using if it's any help.
The H22 map wouldn't run my H22 very well at all!
Here's the calibration I'm currently using if it's any help.
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- Tweaked GSR to run H22.skl
- Still has timing issues, but it works on my car until I can tweak it more.
- (18.09 KiB) Downloaded 587 times
What are you current mods? my buddy and i were able to get some decent power out of it and get vtec working, but theres a big jerk right before vtec hits then the vtec kinda dies out 5000-6000 rpm, 6000-7000 really pulled hard tho. This file i uploaded worked kinda decently, but accidentally forgot to change injector size to the stock 290. Instead its at 240.
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- preludetest.skl
- CAI, Catback, hi-flow cat, AEM power steering pulley. Set at 240cc injectors (oops)
- (16.33 KiB) Downloaded 567 times
Alrighty... i got wideband o2 sensor installed and my friend and i have tuned the map pretty well close to 14.7 full throttle. Most of partial throttle is good, some nooks and crannies. Also, this was tuned at 65 degrees, hasn't been altered to compensate for temp rises and drops. I'll be working on that soon though. My current mods are: Intake, catback, hi-flow cat. Hope it all works out for ya.
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- preludetest.skl
- I/E/HFC
- (16.3 KiB) Downloaded 597 times
14.7:1 is the BEST AFR for everything on NA motor. 12.7:1 for turbo. Explain yourself immediately. What IS the best AFR for gas mileage and HP? I have read EVERYWHERE that its 14.7 at WOT. I even FELT the power drop when it went from 14.7 down to 13.7, and power also went down when afr went from 14.7 to 15.4. Show me actual proof of what afr is best for more power.
Bring your car to the dyno and make some WOT pulls at 14.7:1 and at 13.5:1 and tell me what you find. Not only will you see a small difference in power, but if you have EGT data, you'll notice that at 13.5:1 it is a hell of a lot cooler, helping the engine avoid thermal meltdown.. :) You're more than welcome to run your motor at 14.7:1 WOT, but you sure as hell won't catch me doing that with any of my customers engines. Obviously, not all engines are the same either, and some will make more power between the two a/f differences, but the principles are all the same..
Also, find me one tuner that tunes every car to 14.7:1 WOT and I'll show you thousands that don't or won't. Hell, on that note, put a wideband on a bone stock Civic/Integra/GM Pickup/your mom's Taurus, and tell me what you find for a/f at WOT.
Also, you saying that you "FELT" the difference in power tells me nothing, unless you have proof that your ass-dyno has been properly calibrated. :)
Also, find me one tuner that tunes every car to 14.7:1 WOT and I'll show you thousands that don't or won't. Hell, on that note, put a wideband on a bone stock Civic/Integra/GM Pickup/your mom's Taurus, and tell me what you find for a/f at WOT.
Also, you saying that you "FELT" the difference in power tells me nothing, unless you have proof that your ass-dyno has been properly calibrated. :)
Oh, and since you wanted "proof", I went to the encyclopedia for you (which is probably more accurate than these "other" places you get your information from)..
Quoted from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio
Read:
"A stoichiometric mixture unfortunately burns very hot and can damage engine components if the engine is placed under high load at this fuel air mixture. Due to the high temperatures at this mixture, detonation of the fuel air mix shortly after maximum cylinder pressure is possible under high load (sometimes referred to as pinging). Detonation can cause serious engine damage as the uncontrolled burning of the fuel air mix can create very high pressures in the cylinder. As a consequence stoichiometric mixtures are only used under light load conditions with more fuel added for acceleration and high load condition to prevent detonation and cool down the combustion gasses."
Also, I'm not sure if you meant to come across that I had no clue what I was talking about, or if I took it the wrong way, my apologies if I understood you wrong, and my condolences if I was right.
Quoted from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio
Read:
"A stoichiometric mixture unfortunately burns very hot and can damage engine components if the engine is placed under high load at this fuel air mixture. Due to the high temperatures at this mixture, detonation of the fuel air mix shortly after maximum cylinder pressure is possible under high load (sometimes referred to as pinging). Detonation can cause serious engine damage as the uncontrolled burning of the fuel air mix can create very high pressures in the cylinder. As a consequence stoichiometric mixtures are only used under light load conditions with more fuel added for acceleration and high load condition to prevent detonation and cool down the combustion gasses."
Also, I'm not sure if you meant to come across that I had no clue what I was talking about, or if I took it the wrong way, my apologies if I understood you wrong, and my condolences if I was right.
Now thats what i'm talkin about. I appreciate that you actually went out of your way to prove that theory. I wasn't think that you didn't know what you were talking about, i was more like scratching my head. So you say 13.5 is the best for power and thermals? or is lower better? Also... my knock sensor reads 0.05 at idle and 0.65 at full throttle... i've googled alot about knock sensors and found literally nothing as to what those readings actually mean... are those values bad? I've not messed with ANY timing on the lude, only fuel. One last thing, how do i figure out the air temp comp and water temp comp?
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- Joined: Sun May 07, 2006 3:58 pm
- Location: Newark, DE
I hope you have not been running your car at 14.7:1 @ WOT, I would love to see the condition of your rings and pistons/bore. 14.7 or stioch is what you generally want to tune your car to up to column 7 of your low speed fuel map. I tuned my car to a 12:7 to a 12:9 WOT N/A to be on the safe side of things.
Last edited by TurboGSR96 on Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
585whp/385tq @ 21-23psi E85 Ethanol
OEM GSR Cams & Ignition
OEM GSR Cams & Ignition
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- Posts: 59
- Joined: Sun May 07, 2006 3:58 pm
- Location: Newark, DE