Preflight serious dino tuning day - help!

FlashPro questions & answers specific to the 2010 CR-Z (US, Euro & Asia)
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Posts: 58
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2012 1:49 am

Preflight serious dino tuning day - help!

Post by alollini » Thu Jul 04, 2013 11:06 am

I have a tuning day on a dyno planned for July 16.

I would like we review together several points in order not to waste that day (and my money with it)

I have read that :

1- I suppose geometry is not needed (my geometry is 2 month old)
because this is a dyno where the machine is bolted and replace the front wheels, right ?

2- fueling done right : i would like to be sure that when i change a value in the fueling table it actually change the amount of fuel.
what can alter the values ? what checkbox should i check :
"use MAP fuel table" check ? at this moment YES
"AFM enabled" check ? at this moment YES
"use MAP to determine WOT" check ? at this moment YES

what are the tables "WOT lambda adjustent"?

- intake air temperature above 20°C and below 40°C
- cooling temperature above 80°C

is there a way to prevent the AC compressor to make AF 10% richer ( i mean different than AC OFF )
is there any control about that ?

3- Ignition timing and Knock retard...
in my datalogs i see a lot of knock retard occurring, from 4° to 10° EXCEPT in the 4000 rpm region.
how to tune ignition timing if timing is not really what we setup ?
the only alteration i made from the "stock equivalent" provided calibration template is modifying the "Knock retard" tables from 10 to 4 (all tables wide) but this did not seem to have any impact on the car or the datalogs.

I tried to read this page : ... tables.htm
but this looks a little crazy to me...

4- it is several months i use only SP98 fuel instead of the recommended SP95. (this should allow for more flexibility about ignition timing i hope)

5- still i have this "Battery check" red light problem, maybe i should only tune below 6500rpm avoiding that ? a shame.

I ask all that because the owner of the dyno is a Nissan/Cosworth pro, and he will rely on me for making the changes in the FlashPro Manager. And I am just an enthousiast, and not a pro.
Team CR-Z Youtube Videos here =>
CR-Z GT White "Blue Inside"

Posts: 58
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2012 1:49 am

Re: Preflight serious dino tuning day - help!

Post by alollini » Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:17 pm

We had to uncheck "use AFM" in order for fuel modifications to actually work.

the DynaPack and the CRZ in 5th gear made all the curves with strong oscillation, making decisions less obvious than expected.
Charles of Monstaka said 5th gear is to preserve gearbox.

7300 rpm limiter worked ok.

We came to conclusion that the VTEC point set very low gave best and smoothest results. it is set to 1800 rpm.
Low cam curve was always below high cam at all rpm by a quite large amount of 5 or 7 hp.

it was obviously too rich in low cam and too lean in high cam.
He went on and did each table cell for fuel, (basically reading L.trim + S.trim and compensate) then smoothed, then did low, medium and high load tests to check overall.
setting fuel made 1 or 2 hp gain.

Then we started on ignition timing, for one hour we retarded timing and got each time better results. (se we are really in the middle of the comfort zone)
From first try in the morning to last in the afternoon the difference was from 91 to 105 hp.

Then i took the car on the road back, after 3 minutes, all the ABS and VTC and (!) Parking brake alerts went off.

The car is smoother than before, but pulls anytime i press on the pedal, even 6th gear seem punchier, on the slow 110 kph highway back, there is a steep uphill where i always had to switch to 5th gear and it went very well in 6th this time. I was too tired to push any harder.

I was expecting higher numbers but only the difference matters, the adjustments were needed for better reliability on the long run anyway.
This make me want to test the stock CRZ of my wife to measure difference. ( ... sse-rose-_)

I think there are air restrictions in the HKS intake, in particular an aluminium trumpet shaped in front of the AFM, and another one near the throttle body.
Those have end diameter way smaller than the throttle body, I think I should remove/enlarge those, What do you think ?
Team CR-Z Youtube Videos here =>
CR-Z GT White "Blue Inside"

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