D10 ELD

s300 and SManager software questions & answers
RickyLee53
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D10 ELD

Post by RickyLee53 » Tue Dec 18, 2007 12:40 pm

When hooking up a wideband to D10 ELD, do i cut the wire on the ECU and solder my wideband to it.

Or do i splice into it leaving it connected to whatever its connected to as well?

hiperformance
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Post by hiperformance » Tue Dec 18, 2007 1:26 pm

White 0-5V Output from wideband - connect to ELD input making sure that the ELD is no longer connected to it (ELD is pin D10 on an OBD1 ECU)

In other words, cut it.

RickyLee53
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Post by RickyLee53 » Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:44 pm

hiperformance wrote:White 0-5V Output from wideband - connect to ELD input making sure that the ELD is no longer connected to it (ELD is pin D10 on an OBD1 ECU)

In other words, cut it.
Right i did this, but now my problem is i don't know how to get the Hondata software to read it.

I've gone into close loop mode and told it the calibrations.

But i want to also monitor it as a sensor to make sure it is reading right.

The only "display" i can get is the "lambda" 1, but this isn't as an AFR (which i prefer) and it doesn't seem to correspond to the D10 pin.

Would it be easier just to choose a new pin? As i want to autotune and display wideband as an AFR on the screen.

Also the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor isn't calibrated correctly it seems, as the engine was just started and was showing 100 degrees (celcuis) 170 ish F. How do i calibrate this sensor?

Many thanks.

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Spunkster
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Post by Spunkster » Tue Dec 18, 2007 3:44 pm

What wideband are you using?

RickyLee53
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Post by RickyLee53 » Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:07 pm

Spunkster wrote:What wideband are you using?
Innovate LC1.

RickyLee53
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Post by RickyLee53 » Wed Dec 19, 2007 4:28 am

analogue input 2 looks like the easiest input to use. But You can't watch this in the Display for some reason, whereas you can with AN1.

But AN1 needs a cap soldering in whereas AN2 just needs a couple of Resistor chops.

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Post by Spunkster » Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:31 am

The instructions for this are pretty much the same for the LC1: http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html

RickyLee53
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Post by RickyLee53 » Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:31 pm

Spunkster wrote:The instructions for this are pretty much the same for the LC1: http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html
I've read those and installed it.

What i want to know is how i get to see what the wideband is doing on my laptop.

If i click the lamda button it displays the lambda figure but it doesn't tell me as an AFR to compare it to my gauge, even when i worked it out the figure wasn't the same as displayed on my XD16.

I guess it must be the voltage offset i need to change.

When i've got this working, how do i enable auto tune?

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Post by Spunkster » Wed Dec 19, 2007 1:11 pm

Double click on the AF item in the sensor list and change it to read AF instead of Lamba.

RickyLee53
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Post by RickyLee53 » Wed Dec 19, 2007 5:29 pm

Spunkster wrote:Double click on the AF item in the sensor list and change it to read AF instead of Lamba.
Thanks, thats what i needed :)

RickyLee53
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Post by RickyLee53 » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:24 am

I still can't get them to read the same.

How do i turn autotune on and off?

RickyLee53
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Post by RickyLee53 » Sun Dec 23, 2007 9:25 am

Even playing with the voltage offset i can't get them to read the same all the time, i can get them to read the same for a certain AFR, say 15, then when it gets to 11, its way out.

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Post by Spunkster » Thu Jan 03, 2008 11:17 am

Note that if the ELD input (D10) is used then R136 and R138 (US ECUs) may need to be removed.

DOHCAccord
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Post by DOHCAccord » Thu Jan 03, 2008 3:32 pm

when you say might, how can we tell besides having erratic wideband readings.

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Post by mike93hatch » Thu Jan 03, 2008 5:10 pm

Spunkster wrote:Note that if the ELD input (D10) is used then R136 and R138 (US ECUs) may need to be removed.
cutting them fixed my wideband problems. yay, no more voltage offset and it can read lower than 11.8:1 now

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