H22 Turbo w/1000cc Precisions need startup cal.

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 11:30 am

cardinal811 wrote:What year is your motor? And when you know that, you need to research online. Man, seems like your wanting handouts

im not looking for handouts like you said i did some research online, my motor is a 98 and i think the distributor is a obd2 and i found out that the right sensor im having problems is the CKP wich the also read on onther forum that the JDM H22 does not have CKP? and i happen to have a H22A(JDM)!

cardinal811 · Post by **cardinal811** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:24 pm

92-95 ='s OBD1
96-2001= OBD2

You running a OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness with the Hondata ECU?
What ECU are you running

cardinal811 · Post by **cardinal811** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:27 pm

And you may want to go to www.homemadeturbo.com for some help, they are hard core towards newbs, but after you get past the intro parts, they are very helpful. Look for Joseph Davis, he is a smart mother F'er
Or Chris Harris aka Xenocron

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:10 pm

cardinal811 wrote:92-95 ='s OBD1
96-2001= OBD2

You running a OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness with the Hondata ECU?
What ECU are you running

what that i didnt know so your saying that i need a jumper obd2-obd1? the ECU is a P28.

cardinal811 · Post by **cardinal811** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:10 pm

P28 OBD1? Correct?

megomaniac · Post by **megomaniac** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 5:45 am

Colocho19 wrote:
cardinal811 wrote:What year is your motor? And when you know that, you need to research online. Man, seems like your wanting handouts
im not looking for handouts like you said i did some research online, my motor is a 98 and i think the distributor is a obd2 and i found out that the right sensor im having problems is the CKP wich the also read on onther forum that the JDM H22 does not have CKP? and i happen to have a H22A(JDM)!

Obd1 the crank sensor is in your distributor...
obd2 the cranks sensor is behind the crank pulley...

if you are running a obd1 ecu.... you need to run a obd1 distributor and rewire for the crank sensors in the dizzy.... haven't personaly done this, just research for my own project h22 turbo...... hope this helps.

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:11 am

cardinal811 wrote:P28 OBD1? Correct?

yup p28 obd1

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:14 am

megomaniac wrote:
Colocho19 wrote:
cardinal811 wrote:What year is your motor? And when you know that, you need to research online. Man, seems like your wanting handouts
im not looking for handouts like you said i did some research online, my motor is a 98 and i think the distributor is a obd2 and i found out that the right sensor im having problems is the CKP wich the also read on onther forum that the JDM H22 does not have CKP? and i happen to have a H22A(JDM)!

Obd1 the crank sensor is in your distributor...
obd2 the cranks sensor is behind the crank pulley...

if you are running a obd1 ecu.... you need to run a obd1 distributor and rewire for the crank sensors in the dizzy.... haven't personaly done this, just research for my own project h22 turbo...... hope this helps.

oh ok ill see how i can do this thanx for the help if you found any way how to do this i would really appreciate that, ill do the same if i find anything on the net ill let you know.

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:34 am

Obd1 the crank sensor is in your distributor...
obd2 the cranks sensor is behind the crank pulley...

if you are running a obd1 ecu.... you need to run a obd1 distributor and rewire for the crank sensors in the dizzy.... haven't personaly done this, just research for my own project h22 turbo...... hope this helps.

hey i found this on another forum, is this what your talking about?

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id ... d=33087523

cardinal811 · Post by **cardinal811** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 11:03 am

That is for the engine side and to the ECU, If your running a ODB2 harness and want to convert the whole car to OBD1, If your runing a OBD1 BLOCK and HEAD but with the OBD2 "sensors, distributer,injetors, and engine harness" then all you really need is that mess of wires"ECU harness" and call it a day. I'm not actually there with your car so I have no idea the condition of everything, but hense I DO KNOW, you keep trying to drive your car messed up and in limp mode you will BLOW IT THE FU(K UP. If your not used to diagrams, trouble shooting, mechanically inclined, or electronically inclined, I suggest you taking it to a shop"TRAILER IT" that does work on honda's that are not OEM anymore. So no dealerships.

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 11:34 am

cardinal811 wrote:That is for the engine side and to the ECU, If your running a ODB2 harness and want to convert the whole car to OBD1, If your runing a OBD1 BLOCK and HEAD but with the OBD2 "sensors, distributer,injetors, and engine harness" then all you really need is that mess of wires"ECU harness" and call it a day. I'm not actually there with your car so I have no idea the condition of everything, but hense I DO KNOW, you keep trying to drive your car messed up and in limp mode you will BLOW IT THE FU(K UP. If your not used to diagrams, trouble shooting, mechanically inclined, or electronically inclined, I suggest you taking it to a shop"TRAILER IT" that does work on honda's that are not OEM anymore. So no dealerships.

Well the motor is obd2 and im not shure about the harness all i know is that i used a Type R harness and everything plug in the motor and did not have to change any of the plugs execpt the injector plugs, the dizzy and added a resistor box that was it, but thanx any ways im tryna stay away from the performance shops for now dont want to blow all my money on somehting that its problably simple to do with a little of help from the net and my friends cause shops tell you theres a million things wrong with your car so they can take all your money from ya and keep your car for a month or two while they only had to change the dizzy, oh by the way im not even driving my car its been siting im my garage since it got built i havent even break-in the motor or the turbo.

cardinal811 · Post by **cardinal811** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 11:38 am

Thats good to hear. So you got a H22A JDM "OBD1" swap correct, then you got a type R un molested harness???, Everything plugged right in. So you got a engine bay harness thats OBD1 and a CABIN harness/ECU pin out OBD2. Your going to have to get the harness conversion I BET. Or just rewire it your self. Better get good with the PICK and patients method.

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 12:57 pm

cardinal811 wrote:Thats good to hear. So you got a H22A JDM "OBD1" swap correct, then you got a type R un molested harness???, Everything plugged right in. So you got a engine bay harness thats OBD1 and a CABIN harness/ECU pin out OBD2. Your going to have to get the harness conversion I BET. Or just rewire it your self. Better get good with the PICK and patients method.

yup, well so your saying that i need a jumper for the ecu? do you know wich one would it be?

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:46 pm

Sup cardinal811 I wanted to say thanx for all your sugestions I come to realize that the motor and engine harness are both obd2, now the problem with the crank sensor is now solved :D the only problem with it was a single wire let me repeat a SINGLE wire that was not hook up right it was in the wrong place and that wire was blue RPM wire it was hook up to the Crank negative wire or positive cant remenber but once I removed it and place it with just the blue wire of the resister box it was just like the engine took a big deep breath and relaxed! so two error codes went away that was the CKP(crank angle sensor) and the TPS(throttle position sensor) now I only have two error codes left they are the Intake Air Temp. and Idle Control, so my question to you is should I worry about those two error codes?

Now I still havent Rev. my car at all cause its night time cant really make loud exhaust noise, so far good things I noticed is that the car starts smoothly and its stays on untill I shut it of, before that car would not turn on easy and like 7 sec later it would shut of but it self.

Colocho19 · Post by **Colocho19** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:53 pm

Oh I forgort to say mention that this is exactly what I mean about not taking your car to a performance shop they would have charged me from $300-$1000 bucks to fix this small problem, the only reasons that I would take it to a shop would be to get the car tuned, my car was built by my friend he put the whole motor together and only to get it sleeved was the block shipped to a machine shop. Ill see how much power i can put down hopfuly in the 600whp range. :D

H22 Turbo w/1000cc Precisions need startup cal.

Just two more codes to go!!!! : )