Hot Temps causing Car to run Super Rich 10:1 past -10psi
Hot Temps causing Car to run Super Rich 10:1 past -10psi
So out in Arizona, it is getting pretty hot and my car is driving much worst. It seems like every couple days it decides to act up, especially during the hottest point of the day around noon to early evening.
What happens is that once I past -10psi in throttle, my car goes straight to 10:1 and the car runs really crappy. But at night time, the car runs a lot better I get near perfect AFRs, even into boost.
I'll try to datalog this but have yet to have my laptop handy when it happened.
Could it could possibly be some of fuel compensations?
The motor is D16y8 with a gt28 turbo running 440cc injectors with a walbro fuel pump.
THX
What happens is that once I past -10psi in throttle, my car goes straight to 10:1 and the car runs really crappy. But at night time, the car runs a lot better I get near perfect AFRs, even into boost.
I'll try to datalog this but have yet to have my laptop handy when it happened.
Could it could possibly be some of fuel compensations?
The motor is D16y8 with a gt28 turbo running 440cc injectors with a walbro fuel pump.
THX
- Attachments
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- MAP_y8_6.26.10.skl
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- Richness while around -10 psi.s3d
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Last edited by diSTiNCt on Mon Jun 28, 2010 12:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
^ Thanks for the advice about the closed loop situation but I switched to open loop and am still having problems.
I uploaded an occurrence of the problem a few days ago. I really do not want to take it to a tuner at this moment because I want to learn how to write maps and trouble shoot. It was running great before the temperatures increased.
I have gone over the datalog and reduced the fuel in those areas but after reducing the fuel cells by 5 percent, I instead of getting a really rich area, I run dangerously lean. I tried all different fuel values and I either get a super rich or super lean reading.
Can anyone go over the datalog and calibration, is there something I am failing to recognize?
I uploaded an occurrence of the problem a few days ago. I really do not want to take it to a tuner at this moment because I want to learn how to write maps and trouble shoot. It was running great before the temperatures increased.
I have gone over the datalog and reduced the fuel in those areas but after reducing the fuel cells by 5 percent, I instead of getting a really rich area, I run dangerously lean. I tried all different fuel values and I either get a super rich or super lean reading.
Can anyone go over the datalog and calibration, is there something I am failing to recognize?
if ur going to pratice make sure u use the lean cut protectiondiSTiNCt wrote:^ Thanks for the advice about the closed loop situation but I switched to open loop and am still having problems.
I uploaded an occurrence of the problem a few days ago. I really do not want to take it to a tuner at this moment because I want to learn how to write maps and trouble shoot. It was running great before the temperatures increased.
I have gone over the datalog and reduced the fuel in those areas but after reducing the fuel cells by 5 percent, I instead of getting a really rich area, I run dangerously lean. I tried all different fuel values and I either get a super rich or super lean reading.
Can anyone go over the datalog and calibration, is there something I am failing to recognize?
maybe closed loop can helpdiSTiNCt wrote:I am hoping that I just figured it out. The stock o2 heater was disabled but the plug was still connected so it may have been interfering with the fueling.
but ur maps look like someone used too much smoothing lol...
u need to go in and lean it out on part throttle
under full throttle if its a stock motor make sure its rich rich rich lol....
It seemed like after I disconnected the stock o2 it runs somewhat better but I still have the problem occasionally.Revspeed wrote:maybe closed loop can helpdiSTiNCt wrote:I am hoping that I just figured it out. The stock o2 heater was disabled but the plug was still connected so it may have been interfering with the fueling.
but ur maps look like someone used too much smoothing lol...
u need to go in and lean it out on part throttle
under full throttle if its a stock motor make sure its rich rich rich lol....
Revspeed, Lol, I dont really get your last statement. I am right around 12.8 in column 10 and am 12.3 in boost to 8psi. And additionally, aren't the maps suppose to be smooth? Call me stupid if you want, but all the maps I have written are smooth and have no jagged lines or any column crossing one another thus they have given me good driveability until this one. Jeff Schaefer clearly says it tuning articles to do so. Anyways...
Some locals have told me that it is a problem with my tip in, but I don't think so because between shifts it is fine.
Additionally, I remember reading this article: http://www.hondata.com/techpartthrottle.html and have been thinking that I may need more timing in part throttle but I just don't want to over advance.
Anyone else have ideas?
Got a different basemap, seems to be running better but I am really starting to think that Locash pointed something out to me that I failed to recognize. Since I was using the WB02 for closed up via the ELD input, I probably messed up the ELD's purpose and that could explain why my problems could be varying with temperature/voltage.
Locash, was that what you were hinting at?
Locash, was that what you were hinting at?
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- Location: sd california
You have to go under fuel and ignition compensation for air temp and adjust that bassed on target air fuel. Your wideband o2 hooked up on closed loop to the ecu will let the ecu know how much to compensate for temperate in closed. For example it can add a certain percentage of fuel as the temperatures increase or retard timing to compansate for rise in temperate. I will explain this better when im sober. :DdiSTiNCt wrote:Got a different basemap, seems to be running better but I am really starting to think that Locash pointed something out to me that I failed to recognize. Since I was using the WB02 for closed up via the ELD input, I probably messed up the ELD's purpose and that could explain why my problems could be varying with temperature/voltage.
Locash, was that what you were hinting at?
na is gay, turbo n spray
So I figured it out, it has something to do with my ECU. I tried my buddys s300 with my tune on it and ran it for a week and it is running correctly. I have a feeling that my ECU is messing up because I removed r136 and r138, does anyone know the exact specs on these resistors so I can get some replacements?